4/29/2010 GRAND CAYMEN

ITSY BITSY CUTE CAR

Dan and I left the Quest with the boys sanding yet more wood. Life at home will seem like vacation to them!! We picked up a tiny little car and proceeded to visit every hardware, auto parts, marine and Home Depot style store to be found. Armed with tools and supplies needed for MORE WORK we returned (after quick stop at the Dairy Queen) to start our tasks. This was a fruitful, if slightly boring, (OK-major boring) day but we all felt the rewards of jobs well done at the end of the day. We did get to wander over and watch the fishermen weighing in for the second day. Someone came in with a whopping 79 lb. Tuna and the big Wahoo weighed in at 54 lbs. Big babies!! Stay tuned for more on this tomorrow.


We are now back in cell service and have touched base with family. My Blackberry is still out of commission but Dan called Verizon and it seems there is hope when we get to a Verizon shop in Florida. Patients, Judy!! One great piece of news, Robert will hopefully be joining us here for the trip to Key West. He is frantically manipulating schedules and tickets to make this work. Go Robert!

My dear friend, Cheryl, had unexpected surgery tonight at Dartmouth but Dick has reported that all went well. Cheryl, you are in our thoughts and prayers for a speedy recovery.

4/28/2010 ARRIVING IN GRAND CAYMAN

Looking, looking. We are 10 miles out from the Grand Cayman and can’t see anything yet. Granted, it is slightly hazy in our northerly direction of travel but we certainly should be able to see a big island by now. Wait, what’s that? Maybe the side of a mountain? Surely that’s not the blurry form of a cruise ship? Yep! That was our first indication that we were truly approaching the island. Talk about FLAT!!


After contacting the “Port Security” and were given permission to approach George Town’s Grand Cayman Harbor, grab a mooring ball , and wait our turn to come to the pier for clearance. Since there were three boats before us, we bobbed in front of the Carnival ship and watched the shuttles take cruisers to the shore for their day of touring and shopping in the duty free shops. Reuben and Adam, of course, dove off the Quest for some swimming amusement but we managed to keep them from swimming to shore and, once again, entering illegally. No easy feat after 41 hours at sea.

JB IS EVERYWHERE!!

A couple of hours later our call came from Port Security to proceed to their pier for clearance where everyone came aboard Quest for the process. Margaritaville was beckoning to us to come and have a burger and libations but alas, we had to take care of business. Talking to the customs agent, we found that the Cayman Island Yacht Club, our intended destination in the North Sound, had never been rebuilt after the last hurricane and had no power or water. Scratch that! We were given the name and contact information for the new Barcadere Marina in the same area and headed off.

The marina gave us complicated approach headings and we scratched our heads as we tried to comply with their direction. We were like “drunken sailors” zigzagging across the sound as we made our way through the narrow (and shallow!!!) channel. Finally we arrived and were greeted by helping hands at the gas dock. We were advised that if we didn’t need fuel right away we would be better off waiting until we had clearance to depart and fill up just as we left. The fuel would then be “duty free” and we would receive a refund for the taxes paid. Now that is what I call service!! Thanks for the advice. We proceeded to our slip and readied for the night.

By the way, Dan is in heaven because there is a local fishing tournament going on and we got to watch the boats come in to weigh their catch. Oh, and he gets to experience the thrill for two more nights!!!

The marina is less than a year old and still a work in progress. We are out in the middle of nowhere (except you can see the airport from our boat) and construction is going on all around us. Think we will maybe rent a car as recommended.

THE AIRPORT AS SEEN FROM QUEST (OVER CONSTRUCTION)

Right as we were having a great dinner of curry pasta that Reuben and Adam made up, we heard a knocking on the side of the boat. Surprise! Canada (AKA Adam), a friend of Reuben and Adam’s was here to take the boys out on the town. After chowing-down and spinning stories, the boys all left for the “big city”.

4-27-2010 DAY AT SEA AND THE HONDURAN NAVY

Other than a couple of small cargo ships in the distance, today was a rather uneventful day until we were virtually charged by a Honduran Naval ship when we were about 140 miles off their coast. We saw him approaching from a distance and then he veered and headed right for us, stopping just off our Port. They came on the radio (Spanish, of course) and we understood “yacht”. By our third attempt to respond they had found an English speaking crew who questioned “who” we were, “why” we were there and “where” we had come from and were going to. Little spooky but they finally bade us safe travels and we were on our way. Looking back, perhaps it was our Colombian flags that we still had flying that tweaked their interest.

We are making good time and should arrive in the Caymans before noon tomorrow. We will all be ready for shore power and some dry land time. Our main concerns there will be checking on the up-coming weather for our journey around Cuba and into the good ole USA at Key West. There is a weather front that may hinder our progress but you all know the weather, ever changing!

4/26/2010 LEAVING SAN ANDRES

Dan and I were up and preparing for our expected pre-noon departure from San Andrres. Water in the boat, Spaghetti Pie ala “Alexis” and banana bread prepared, Internet Shop for posting blog and reading emails, things stowed and ready for the short run to San Andres’ sister island, Providencia, where we would anchor for the night and get our Colombia exit papers. Things don’t always happen as we plan them and Agent Rene brought the news that the officials were busy this morning and we wouldn’t have our papers until around 5:00 PM. Can’t make it to anchorage so this changes everything! Scratch Providencia, get us our Zerpa from San Andres to the Caymans and we will begin the long, two-nighter this evening. After sending Rene on his way, Dan and I headed for the nearby Sunrise Hotel for an afternoon of poolside cocktails and lunch interrupted only by dips in the inviting pool. Lovely afternoon!!

By 5:30 we were casting off and wending our way through the narrow channel to the sea. The currents were favoring us and at times we were making a good 11knt.

4/25/2010 SUNDAY , A DAY OF EXPLORATION

Sunday morning we awoke to the sirens from motorcycle police escorting the lead bicyclers in the San Andres Triathlon. The course ran back and forth in the street in front of Nene’s.

RACERS

After Dan revamped his fishing rod holders and moved them to the back of the boat, we took off for a day of exploration. We rented a cute, red “Golf cart” and revved off to see what there was to see. Passing the San Andres Airport we spied a local Arapa cart and couldn’t resist trying them. We shared 3 different ones and they were all tasty. It is kind of a masa dumpling stuffed with various fillings. We had chicken and vegetables, pork with potatoes and the third had a meat and an egg inside. Good meal at a great price.

OUR RED RIDER

ARAPA CART

While ambling from the airport area we passed numerous churches filled with the Sunday congregation. It is a friendly island with people waving and greeting you as you pass. Dan caught sight of something that intrigued him and made a quick “U” turn. We found an old horse powered Sugar Cane grinder. The lovely gentleman there was gracious enough to explain how it all worked and showed us the end syrup product. It was much like the process of making our Vermont Maple Syrup. They use old coconut husks to stoke the fires under the bubbling pots of juice extracted from the cane.

CANE GRINDER

BOILING POTS

Further along our trek we picked up 2 young boys who were ecstatic to be riding in the back seat of the cart. About that time we crossed paths with Adam and Reuben on their rented scooters who hoped we weren’t trying to replace them with a younger crew.(ha!)

As we continued on our journey we found a nice beach near town to return to later and enjoyed the calm waters. Dan dove down and found an empty Sea Urchin shell and brought it to the surface. I saw no fish but Dan saw a couple in the sea grass that covered the bottom. We bought coconut bread from the “Coconut Lady” and encountered the local Rastafarian bum who played his “stick” for us and sang his Coconut Lady song. Some of the local children borrowed our snorkel and masks to explore the sea bottom. They were sweet and polite, thanking us profusely.

After returning our “day rides”, we all enjoyed a scrumptious dinner at La Regatta, setting right over the water.

4/24/2010 SATURDAY IN SAN ANDRES

Dan and I grabbed a cup of coffee and set out to find an ATM machine and internet access. We found both and my card did allow us to take out some Colombian Pesos. The Internet Café actually had WI-Fi and we returned later with my PC to catch up on email and post the blog.


After making several walking trips to town, we spotted this GIANT barracuda sculpture. Maybe if it had been bigger we would have seen it the first five times we passed it!! Isn’t this sooo Dan? Our only explanation for missing it was that it was on the inland side of the walk and we were always gazing to the sea?!!

Nene’s marina is tucked right behind the local Texaco station so fueling wasn’t a problem. They just drug an extremely long hose to the Quest and filled her up with diesel. Always glad to get that done. Dan also accomplished some Quest maintenance. Hot work!!

When we were able to check the internet weather we found that our weather window was limited. We will be able to leave here on Monday when we get our exit papers and make it to Providencia in 6 hours or so. We will spend the night there, clear out of Colombia on Tuesday and set for the Caymans. We should arrive there before the really ugly looking weather sets in but may be stuck there until at least May 2. The www.passageweather.com only shows a week ahead so we are hoping for the best.

We all headed to Miss Celia’s, which was recommended as a good local’s place, for dinner. The guys all had Conch and I had a yummy Crab dish. Good choice. As we wandered the boardwalk after dinner we were reminded of Puerto Vallarta on a Sunday night. Babies, toddlers, youths, teens, young adults and old geezers were all out there, milling about together and enjoying the camaraderie and the sea breeze.

BARACUDA

4/24/2010 WORK TRUCKS

 ALL AROUND WORK TRUCK!!

                                                               BREAD DELIVERY??

4/23/2010 ARRIVING IN ISLA SAN ANDRES, COLOMBIA

STOWAWAY

ONE OF THE MANY SHIPWRECKS

My morning shift began bright and early, 5:00 AM.  Things were still really rough but we only anticipated about 6 or 7 more hours until we reached our destination. Waves, wind and 2 hours later, shift change!

We gratefully pulled into the crystal waters around Isla San Andres (12d33N X 81d41’W) and discovered two things. One, we had a cute little “stowaway” and second, that these waters are really shallow and littered with many shipwrecked reminders.  Careful now!!  We contacted ship’s agent (a must here in Isla San Andres) and Rene from the Serrana Agency met us at Nene’s Marina where we berthed.  Rene brought the Customs official with him and came back a little later with Immigration who took all our passports to their office for stamping.  Rene said he would return them to us this evening around 6:30 but came back empty handed with promises that Immigration would have them to him in the morning.

                                             APPROACHING ISLA SAN ANDRES

The boys, once again, hopped to the job of cleaning the outside of Quest then were free to explore.  They found, as did we, tons of duty free type shops. As Adam said, “If anyone here doesn’t smell sweet it not for lack of available perfume”.  Dan’s ATM card is not allowing us to withdraw cash so we are lacking Colombian Pesos right now.  I will try my card tomorrow.

This island is populated with a gazillion motor scooters. Everyone drives them. Tourist, businesses people, merchants, police, old ladies and entire families use them as a mode of transportation. Modified golf carts are also available for rent.  We will probably give that a try while we are here.  A good way to see the island and visit the beautiful beaches.

Rene returned at the appointed hour but said he would not have our passports back from Immigration until tomorrow AM. 

                                                               NENE'S MARINA

4/22/10 LEAVING BOCAS DEL TORO AND THE BIG CATCH

After Dan applied another coat of varnish to the wood hand rail, fetching our laundry and paying up our bill we waved adios to our new friends at Bocas Marina.  I am not “done” here and will return someday. I’ll be flying into the tiny airport, checking into one of the tropical resorts and exploring the beautiful waters.

We pulled out around 1:00 PM and knew immediately our all-nighter wouldn’t be smooth sailing.  We started our watch rotation with everyone kind of finding their nitch for the hours to come. 

Wham! Bam! Dan has a huge Dorado on line and brought the bloody thing in!!  “Reuben, get the gaff!”  Dan brought the monster to the side of the Quest and Reuben leaned out to gaff him.  “Holy shit!”  He went wild, breaking the gaff as he struggled to get loose.  Dan’s got the pole, Reuben’s trying to get him on board and Adam has the hammer to put him out of his misery.  He wasn’t giving up, no way.  Brain dead but still kicking, he flipped off the side.  Reuben still had him gaffed and they all managed to bring him back on, no easy task.  Feast tonight!!  We made sashimi and poke with our mix from Kauai. Thankfully we had already prepared Alexis’ Chinese Cabbage Salad because by dinner time it was way too rough to cook anything. 

The conditions deteriorated all night with waves, wind and lightening in the distance. UGH!

4/21/2010 SANDING IN BOCAS

My how time flies when you are working like a dog! After Dan and the boys spent all day sanding the wooden rail with 4 different grits of paper they managed to completely remove all the previous finish. Dan and I then started the process of applying new varnish, first mixed with mineral spirits in a ratio of 1 to 1. Lightly sanding with fine paper then a second coat was applied with an increased in strength. We got 2 coats on everything and more on the front. We hope to apply a coat of full strength early tomorrow morning before we leave Bocas.

ADAM SWEEPING UP THE MESS

REUBEN AND ADAM DOING SOME FINISH WORK

DAN APPLYING VARNISH

Having worked right through lunch, we were all famished and ready for dinner early. After much needed showers we stopped at the Cantina for a quick cocktail before hailing a water taxi for town. Dan and I hadn’t been there at night and it is much livelier than in the heat of the day. Walked a little then settled in for dinner overlooking the bay. We all had some kind of yummy fish then Dan and I headed back while the boys “hit the town”. Lots of young adults for them to cohort with!

4/20/2010 BOCAS TOWN SIGHTS

VILLAGE CENTER

WORK TRUCK-ET?

SO CARIBBEAN !

VIEW FROM THE WATER TAXI

4-20-2010 BOCAS MARINA

MAIN STREET BOCAS

Dan and I attempted to take a walk this morning but found there was just no place to go from here. The water taxis are the key to getting everywhere here. We dumped some linens of at the marina’s laundry, chatted with some folks, paid our fuel bill and hailed a water taxi to Bocas Town. It really is different from any other place we have been so far. Dive shops abound and water tours are available from every corner. We hit every store that had a hardware section and secured a new water pump pressure switch and sand paper and varnish for the outside wood work. We pretty much walked the entire village and found the tiny airport, the local police station, lots of hostels, a few cute hotels, a used book store (books in English), scads of eateries and several good places to buy provisions tomorrow.

BOCAS AIRPORT

POLICIA

The guys began the tedious and dusty job of sanding the wooden hand-rails this evening. They worked until and neighboring sailor took pity and told them they must stop for cocktails. Being the good boys they are, they of course complied. They plan to start again early tomorrow before it gets too hot.

We had another nice dinner at the Calypso Cantina. Tonight’s special was delicious shrimp. It is a good place to mingle and get the skinny on what is going on.

QUEST IN BOCAS MARINA

4/19/2010 BOCAS DEL TORO

STARFISH UNDER 4' OF CARIBBEAN WATER

This morning we awoke to find two guys in a little dugout wishing to relieve us of $10.00 for anchoring off their island. Some kind of scam but “worth the price of admission”, for sure. I can only hope that all our anchorages could be this lovely! Reuben snorkeled off for a quick view of the reef before we hauled up anchor at 8:45 and headed for Bocas del Toro.


Our second day in the Caribbean was hot and windless with totally calm seas. These seas have many more shallow reefs and shoals that you must be aware of. We scraped bottom (just a tad) as we were pulling into Bocas Yacht Club and Marina. We also found no channel markers or buoys, even though all the charts showed that they existed. Tough navigating!

VIEW FROM QUEST

The view from the marina is charming and colorful. We pulled right up to the fuel dock and got that chore done and are now docked with power (air-conditioning) and water—so nice. The little bar/restaurant here is having “tackos” (tacos) as reported by neighboring boater. We are there for sure!!!

FUEL DOCK

MARINA OFFICE

CANTINA FOR TACOS

IS THIS PERFECT, OR WHAT??

Another quick fact for the record. Quest traveled 420 nm further East from Portland, Oregon to the Panama Canal than she traveled South. Figure that one!!!

4/19/2010 MONDAY SHELTER BAY MARINA TO ISLA ESCUDO DE VERAGUAS

”Rise and shine, boys. Were outta here!” We pulled out of Shelter Bay Marina by 6:30 AM, received permission to enter the Canal Zone and proceed to the marked channel, and headed west (and slightly south too). Seems so bizarre to me that we could possibly be going in either of those directions!! We are really in the Caribbean now and enjoyed the azure seas and anticipated our first swim.

”Fishing off the boat” took on a whole new meaning today. “Tzing” went the line. Dan grabbed the pole and “Holy Shit! We have a Marlin” was the cry. Dan held his ground, allowing the beautiful Stripped Marlin to strip off line against the brake of the small 500 series reel. We were sorely under equipped for this battle but patience and perseverance (and a lot of sweat) paid off and we retrieved the lure from the Marlin’s mouth before biding him a fond farewell. Talk about excitement!! (Sorry Jan, that you weren’t here!)

HOLY SHIT!!!

FIGHT THAT BABY, DAN!

WHAT A BEAUTY!

Ok, now that we were stopped, it was time for our first dip on the Caribbean side. How refreshing!! No time to dally, off we go again.

The seas were extremely calm, almost eerie at times. You could almost hear the butterfly wings of the flying fish as the skimmed the surface of the sea before plunging in. At times there were dozens of them in sight.

Shortly before the end of our day’s journey, Reuben reeled in a nice Wahoo. Great news. Dinner tonight!!

We approached our anchorage at Isla Escudo de Veragus (09d05’N 81d34W) just before sunset. The waters were so clear that you could see our anchor resting 17 feet below us. We all enjoyed an evening of swimming and a fish barbeque.

Our travels have taken us 4,702 nautical miles with an average speed of 6.7 knots. As impressive as those statistics are, they don’t begin to exemplify the magnitude of our experience gained. We are truly blessed!

4/17/2010 COLON BY DAN

A sad day, we said goodbye to Jan and Debbie this morning as they are traveling back home today. Last night we were treated to a Caribbean thunder storm with one very close lightening strike. After saying goodbye to Jan and Debbie the rest of us hired a taxi for the day to go to Colon and do some sightseeing. Colon is not safe if you are alone or after dark. The downtown of Colon architecture reminded me of the French quarter of New Orleans. It was very sad to see all of these old beautiful buildings in such bad disrepair.

COLON

 We went to several stores to get supplies and a flag for Colombia and Grand Cayman. I went to a barber shop and got my hair cut. The barber used a straight razor for the shave and washed my hair all for $8.00. During our taxi ride we crossed over the canal on a one lane bridge that is part of the lock. This was a view of the lock we did not see from the boat.

VIEW FROM BRIDGE

 The construction has started on the new bigger locks. There is lots of very big equipment here moving mountains for the new locks.

NEW CANAL CONSTRUCTION

 It is hard to believe that they need bigger locks. When you are in the locks you feel very small. The Marina has a pool next to the restaurant so you can guess how Judy and I finished our day.

4/16/2010 LATE VISITORS FOR A CARD GAME

EDDIE (LINE HANDLER) CAME BACK WITH FRIENDS FOR A GAME OF FANTAM

DAN AND REUBEN GIVING LESSONS

FUN FOR ALL!!