Saturday, March 30, 2013

MIKE AND DAVE VISIT BIMINI THEN QUEST HEADS FOR FLORIDA


 3/17/2013 TO 3/25/13  
BIMINI SUNRISE


                We were reunited with Algonquin when they arrived at Bimini on Monday afternoon and dock in the adjacent slip at Brown’s Marina.  Zeke, their Portuguese Water Dog, was generous with his kisses and happy to get his paws on shore after two days traveling from Nassau.  We enjoyed their company Tuesday then they left for Florida early Wednesday morning, Garth’s birthday.

ALGONQUIN PULLS OUT AND HEADS FOR FLORIDA

                Mike Wraga and Dave Powers flew into the little South Bimini Airport on Thursday afternoon and Dan took the tender across to bring them to North Bimini and Quest.  This little jaunt from North and South Bimini is quite short and I could see them from the boat.  The little ferry runs between the two islands almost constantly transporting workers, school children and guest.



                The guys spent Friday fishing on a hired fishing boat and returned with a delicious grouper for our dinner.  The seas were rough and conditions not so good but they all had a good time.  The other days they just snooped around in the tender and did catch a few more fish.

HERE FISHY, FISHY

                Someone suggested that we go to the southern end of Gun Cay to visit the rays.  Under favorable conditions it wouldn't have taken long but with the winds and waves up in arms it took about 2 hours to reach our destination at a slow idle speed.  Since the conditions were so bad I, unfortunately, did not take my camera.  Boy was that a mistake.  We threw out an anchor and climbed out of the tender in the shallow waters of the protected southern beach and were immediately greeted by two beautiful and extremely curious rays.  These silky creatures skimmed the sandy bottom around our feet, weaving in and around our legs.  At first it was a bit discerning but soon we were bending down to pat the top of their wings.  As we grew comfortable with their company we snorkeled around their territory and even sat down with them.  We were usually with three that seemed to like being with us but did see up to five in the area.  After we had been there for a while and they grew to trust us, one of the Sting Rays brought over a very small, young ray to meet us.  This was truly one of the coolest things I have done, ever.  These wild creatures were not forced to mingle with us but choose to approach due to their curiosity and of their own will.  Just way too cool!

                With Mike and Dave scheduled to fly out on Monday afternoon (3/25) Dan and I felt comfortable to take advantage of the extremely short window of favorable weather to make the crossing from Bimini to Fort Lauderdale.  Since it looked to be the only day for a week to make our exit, it was kind of a decision forced upon us.  Dave and Mike were able to leave their luggage at the marina, scour the town, comb the beach and shower at the marina when they were ready to take the ferry to the airport.

                Quest left Bimini around 11:00 AM and we were pulling into the Port Everglades Inlet by 5:00 PM when we received a call from Mike in Bimini.  Seems the best of plans can sometimes go awry.  Their 3:00 departure had been delayed and they were still on Bimini!  They finally made it to Florida real late, spent the night and flew out for the north early the next morning.  Whoops!

                Boy, guess we are not in the Bahamas any more.  The busy Port Everglades was a zoo with cruise ships pulling out, fishermen returning to port and general chaos all around.  We pulled into the Las Olas City Marina after closing time but found many helping hands to assist in our tie-up.  Now we can breathe a little easier knowing that we have made the crossing and can get to Stuart, even under nasty conditions, in time for Dan to fly out next Monday.

GUESS WE ARE NOT IN THE BAHAMAS ANY MORE

Monday, March 18, 2013

CAT TO BIMINI



3//13/12 THROUGH 3/17/12
QUEST HEADS HOME
  
     After a serious look at the ever increasing demand for Dan’s time and input into the evolving new business, we decided that perhaps it was time to head Quest in the direction of home.  Checking the weather and charting our course, we made plans to leave Cat Island on Wednesday.


      We left Cat Island bright and early, before 7:00, and headed across the open waters to Highborne.  The 71 NM made for a long day but the relative calm waters and sunny skies made for a nice day.  Dan had called the Highborne Marina the day before for a reservation for dockage but had only been able to leave a message.  Thinking they would call if it were not available, we made tracks for their safe haven as the expected blow approached.  Unfortunately today’s call to the marina found them totally booked and almost insulted that we thought they might give us a call.  Imagine that!?  Our first anchorage choice was taken but Dan quickly adjusted his plan and we dropped anchor just beyond the marina’s entrance channel.   With the hook barely set we were scrambling to get doors and windows closed before the rain began pelting down.

LEAVING CAT 




THE STORM APPROACHES IN HIGHBORNE

     Our anchor held fast all night but the surge was AWFUL!  We could hardly wait for daylight to arrive to reassess our plans.  Checking all weather predictions we found that there was a small-craft warning in our path to Nassau but figured it couldn't be much worse than our situation the previous night.  I gathered up life jackets and prepared the “ditch-bag” (this is a water-tight bag that should contain things like passports, boat documentation, cash and other important things that might be needed if you had to abandon ship).  Dan made sure there was an available slip at Nassau Harbor Club and then we took off.  What a good choice that turned out to be.  While a bit rough, it was so much better than expected and the journey was made with little difficulty.  I never even resorted to setting on the floor.

     Talk about returning back to civilization!!  There were 3 cruise ships in, jet skis zipping around, booze cruise boats entertaining cruise ship guests, snorkelers, divers, kayakers, folks soaring up in the air beneath colorful para-sails and just a general atmosphere of activity all around.  Dan radioed the Harbor Master for permission to enter the channel then found Peter and crew waiting at the dock to assist us.  He did a masterful job maneuvering big Quest into the intricate spot assigned to us.

THE HUB-BUB OF NASSAU

     Dan spent most of the day in the execution of business while I attempted to do some catch up with the blog then we were delighted to find Pete from  MY REWARD knocking at the door.  The boating world just keeps getting smaller and smaller.  By 4:00 Algonquin had pulled into the marina to join us. 

    Let me tell you about the new Fresh Market.  The previous market was conveniently located right across the street but closed down over a year ago.  The newly refurbished store is a dream for provisioning with a large produce section, a butcher and fish counter, an in-house bakery and even a deli counter.   Boaters Dream!

     Saturday morning found us strolling westward  towards the cruise ships, shops and Straw Market before hopping on a bus that brought us right back to the marina.  We took on a bit of fuel to get us to Bimini and back to the US then set our sights on the anchorage at Chub Cay.

THE SIGHTS ALONG BAY STREET IN NASSAU

     Our path through the harbor was delayed due to the arrival of the Carnival Freedom which made a total of five cruise ships in port for the day.  Holy cow!  Think that could be messy?  When allowed to proceed we followed a stunning tall-masted sailing vessel out and watched as she hauled up her massive white sails and begin her journey.  We were lucky enough to have their company all afternoon as they sailed about 2 miles off our starboard all day.  What a sight!  The seas were splendidly calm, the blue skies peppered with white clouds and the temperature oh-so pleasant.  

LEAVING NASSAU HARBOR


     Arriving at Chub Cay’s anchorage we were charmed by the large but tasteful beach cottages lining the beach.  We have heard many stories about the development, both pro and con.  We will definitely check it out next trip over.    The entrance channel for the marina passes directly behind the anchorage and we saw lots of traffic as darkness approached bringing the fishermen back in and crossing yachts seeking a night’s dockage.  Around midnight we were awakened by the spotlights of a yacht coming into the anchorage.  Although his bright light’s light up the quiet anchorage, he did creep in almost silently and drop his hook.

CHUB CAY

CHUB SUNSET--JUST TOO HARD TO CHOOSE ONE SHOT

     The alarm clock got us up at “0:dark-thirty”and by 6:40 we were off the hook and creeping out to start our long day’s journey to Bimini.  We were not, however, the first to pull out.  Spirit, the sailboat next to us, hauled up its anchor and snuck out in total darkness  around 4:30.  This is a very popular route and by 8:30 we had faster boats overtaking us west and were beginning to see vessels heading east that had spent the night anchored out on the shallow bank.  By 11:45 we had overtaken the slower moving Spirit and reached our half-way point to Bimini.

THE POWERFUL SUN EMERGES THROUGH THE CLOUDS
      
     I do love traveling across the shallow bank that leads to Bimini.  You just can’t describe the sensory overload of being surrounded by miles and miles of liquid turquoise.   Large orange starfish are easily spotted resting on the sandy bottom in the shallow 12 to 17’ waters.  An hour out of Bimini we found a hitchhiker sunning on the bow of our towed tender.   Oh yes, Dan was in seventh heaven being able to get the NASCAR race on both the radio and the TV.  He would listen to the commentators from the pilot house then run back to the TV for crashes and race restarts.

THE TURQUOISE WATERS OF THE BANK
DAN THOUGHT THIS WAS SO CUTE UNTIL HE SAW THE MESS LEFT ON THE TENDER

    Pulling into the narrow cut that leads to Alice Town and the splattering of marinas along North Bimini’s eastern shoreline we were almost in a traffic jam.  Three of us larger boats were lined up, slowly entering the channel and maneuvering around the working dredge and we sought to reach our destination.  Whoops!  The new ferryboat that runs from Alice Town to Miami was loaded up and ready to take her charges back to Florida.  We gave the Maverick a wide berth, allowing her to keep to her schedule, and then approached our dock at Brown’s Marina.  Usually we stay at Blue Water Marina located just a little further on but were impressed with the improvements we saw going on at Brown’s last December so decided to give it a try.  Gosh, the dock master, was most helpful and accommodating and soon we were all tied up and ready for our week here in Bimini.
  
A PRETTY JUMBLED MESS FOR SUCH A QUIET PLACE LIKE ALICE TOWN

     So now, picture this.  The evening’s hustle and  bustle is in full swing with fishing boats coming back with their day’s catch, cruisers arriving for a night’s stay, the ferryboat hustling off and the dredge working to clean the shifting sands from the much used channel.   Now, in comes a float plane gliding right down in the midst of all this traffic. He quickly takes care of his business and prepares to take off.  As I am watching this I notice he seems to have an un-ticketed passenger calmly strolling on one of the pontoons.  I pointed this out to Gosh and he started waving and yelling at the pilot.  By now other boaters were trying to get his attention.  STOP!  Arms waving!  Finally he got the picture and floated back closer to shore before opening his door, extending his leg and giving the dog a nudge into the shallower water to swim back to shore.  Bet he checks twice for unwanted passengers next time.

THE EXPECTED  PASSENGERS

AND THE UNEXPECTED PASSENGER 
AND ALL IS WELL IN BIMINI

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Friday, March 15, 2013

CAT ISLAND 3/5/12 THROUGH 3/13/12

ABANDONED TUG WASHED UP DURING SOME STORM


     Cat Island, almost directly east of Staniel Cay, is about 43 miles in length.  We are docked on the southwestern point at the lovely Hawk’s Nest Marina and Resort (www.Hawks-Nest.com), home of the annual Wahoo Championship and Billfish Blast.  It is commonly believed that the island was named after the infamous pirate, Arthur Cat, that made frequents stops on the island.   The actor Sidney Portiere was born and raised on this little paradise.


     Cat Island is a fisherman’s dream.  The marina houses several beautiful fishing boats and is overfilled during the annual tournaments.  Not only is the island situated perfectly for Wahoo, Dorado and Bill Fish in the nearby deep waters but the mangroves and shallows offer an ideal setting the popular Bone fishing.  The marina is within walking distance to the resort or you can grab one of their numerous bikes to make the short trek, however be sure to heed the “AIRPLANE CROSSING” signs when the private runway intersects the roadway.  Even though this small Island has two public airports (ATC=Arthurs Town and TBI=New Bight) there are frequent takeoffs and landings right here by the boats. 

HAWK'S NEST MARINA AND RESORT

     While meandering through the mangrove of Hawk’s Nest Creek we spied more than a half dozen sea turtles lazing about.  That is until they spied us, then they zipped off at an amazing speed.  We have also seen Rays and a Shark in the marina along with Osprey and Herons.  During some of our beach strolls we have found numerous sea-beans, a beautiful King Helmet, a delicate Scotch Bonnet, small Sea Biscuits, a delicate Pearl Oyster, Zebra Ark and my first Flamingo Tongue.

WILD LIFE ON AND AROUND CAT ISLAND

SEA-BEANS

SEA SHELLS FROM CAT ISLAND

     One of the most spectacular sights on Cat Island is The Hermitage.  Father Jerome Hawes sought out this secluded spot to build his diminutive stone monastery when he was 62 and lived there until his death at 80.   The stone structure is perched atop 206 foot Mount Alverno, the highest spot in the Bahamas, affording a spectacular 360 degree view.
THE HERMITAGE

     The Deveaux Plantation and Mansion in Port Howe, once a thriving and luxurious, now lies in ruins with sheep grazing at the doorway.  This land was awarded to Colonel Deveaux in 1783 to reward his protecting Nassau from Spanish invasion and occupation.

THE RUINS OF ANDREW DEVEAUX'S GREAT HOUSE

     During our drive around the island we made a stop at the charming 16 room Greenwood Beach Resort (www.greenwoodbeachresort.com) for lunch and a walk on their lovely beach.  It is the perfect minimalist hideaway owned and operated by a German family.  It certainly was not fancy but perfectly situated on the ocean side and secluded from the outside world.

CHARMING  GREENWOOD BEACH RESORT

     We have dined at the resort a couple of night but have been really enjoying the Grouper that Dan caught as well as Dorado and Wahoo that a neighboring boat shared with us.  One night Mr. Johnson showed up with his pickup loaded with recently delivered produce for sale.  Nice touch!

CAT ISLAND SUNSET

Astronaut photograph of Cat Island.
Astronaut photograph of Cat Island. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
                                                CAT ISLAND
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Thursday, March 7, 2013

SPENDING TIME ON GREAT EXUMA 2/24/13 THROUGH 3/5/13


HUNKERING DOWN IN GEORGE TOWN

     With the Hanson’s departure and the anticipation of some windy and stormy weather, we were quite content to stay docked right next to Algonquin at the Exuma Yacht Club for over a week.  Garth and Dan did a little fishing and enjoying their time out on the water.

DAN AND GARTH ANTICIPATING  DOING THE FISHING THING

IT'S IN THE BAG!

     We rented a car with Garth and Kathy for a couple of days and really did some inner-island exploration.  Heading south from George Town we meandered through Rolle Town, The Ferry and stopped for lunch at Santana’s in Williams Town.  Santana’s is known for the best fried lobster on the island and I wouldn’t put up any arguments on that point.  Santana’s is also a favorite to Johnny Depp when filming down here.   We ran into a little rain this day but our spirits were not dampened and it did cool things down considerably.

SANTANA'S
WE ALSO VISITED THE TROPIC OF CANCER BEACH
     
     The next day we set our sights on the northern part of Great Exuma and covered such locations as Moss Town, Forrest, Farmer’s Hill, Steventon, and Rolleville.  There were stops made to search for sea beans along the wrack line of debris and shells on the swash zone where the sand is hard and wet.

     The town of Steventon is the site of Pompey’s Rebellion. In 1829, 32 year old Pompey led a rebellion when 77 of Lord Rolle’s slaves were told that the Estate Agent was shipping them to Cat Island before they could harvest their families’ crops.  These men and women fled to the bush and hid until their provisions were depleted then 44 of them returned under Pompey’s leadership.  They commandeered Lord Rolle’s salt boat and headed to Nassau appeal to the antislavery sympathetic Governor Smith.  They didn’t quite make it and were captured along the way and thrown into Nassau’s work house.  Governor Smith got wind of their plight and had them all sent back to Exuma.  He did, however, make an example of Pompey by publicly administering 39 punishment lashed.  Pompey’s leadership in this early rebellion earned him a place in history of the Bahama antislavery movement.  Slavery was abolished in the British Colonies in 1838.

STATUE OF POMPEY IN FRONT OF THE RUINS OF AN OLD JAIL

STUCK HERE IN  A BAHAMIAN JAIL!
SO NOW YOU KNOW WHY I AM SELDOM IN THE PHOTOS

I WAS LUCKY, DAN SPRANG ME OUT

     In Rolleville we stopped to inquire about some prickly pods hanging from shrubs.  One of the guys had been part of the crew on the Class C sailboat Thunderbird in Little Farmers Five F races.  He was more than happy to snag some of the prickly pods known as Donkey Eyes and shell out the hard beans.  Kids have been known to rub the beans briskly on something hard then torment buddies by applying the now hot bean to their skin.  Yep, kids will be kids the world over.

PICKING THE MULE EYES TO SHARE WITH US 

     By the 5th it was time to move on.  The laundry had been utilized, we were provisioned to the hilt and we were ready to go.  Algonquin headed north to begin their journey back to the mainland while Quest set out east for Cat Island and the refuge of Hawk’s Nest Marina where we would ride out the next expected blow. 
  
WE WAVED SO LONG TO ALGONQUIN BUT HOPE TO MEET UP
WITH THEM DURING OUR TRIP THROUGH FLORIDA



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