1/29/2011 LITTLE FARMERS CAY

EXPLORING THE CAVE AND PARTICIPATING IN THE COMMUNITY FUNDRAISER FOR A GOOD CAUSE

SATURDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

Marilyn and Vic came through and took us on an adventurous trek today. We followed them in the dingy to Great Guana Cay and set off on foot to find the “cave”. It started out pretty good but soon we were ducking up one rocky path and back down another, seeking the hidden cave entrance. Just when we thought we might never find it Dan spied it. We ducked inside and dunked our toes in the cool waters and admired the stalagmites and stalactites.

DUCKING INTO THE CAVE AND FINDING THE COOL WATERS

DAN,JUDY, MARILYN AND VIC

DAN HANGING WITH THE STALAGMITES AND STALACTITES

After our fill of the cave we continued on over to the lovely beach on the east side of the island. We relaxed in the shade of some overhanging trees and combed for shells before heading back to our dinks.





THE CAPTIVATING LITTLE BAY THAT WE HIKED TO


The community here on Little Farmers Cay came together this afternoon to raise some funds to assist a fellow islander in need. She is undergoing radiation treatments for throat cancer and her benefits have run out. There was live music, crafts and some great food for sale. They served up your choice of chicken, ribs, steak, lobster or goat curry. Steve and Cindy (of VT) were there with newly arrived relatives, many boaters dinked ashore to participate and all the local families gathered for this worthy cause. We chatted with the school’s principal and his lovely wife who teaches the lower grades and they invited us to stop into the school when we return next week. It was so cool to be a part of this community activity.

LIVE MUSIC

HOOPS WITH THE GUYS

JULIAN TAKES TIME FROM HIS COOKING TO MAKE JOHN LAUGH

LOTS OF SMILES ON BEAUTIFUL FACES TODAY

JOHN

1/28/2011 LITTLE FARMERS CAY

LITTLE FARMERS CAY YACHT CLUB


FRIDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 20 NM

SUNRISE AT BLACK POINT

After picking up our pre-ordered and freshly baked wheat bread from Lorraine’s mom, we pulled up anchor and headed back up north a short distance to catch the Dotham Cut that would take us to the Exuma Sound side of the islands. As soon as we rounded Dotham Point Dan had the fishing lines in the water. Unfortunately it didn’t prove to be a fruitful day fishing-wise. We did catch and release a small barracuda just as we were made our approach to Farmers Cay.

THE RUGGED WHITE CLIFFS AS WE APPROACH DOTHAM CUT

We hailed the Farmers Cay Yacht Club and, with Julian’s assistance, tied up to their dock. As we were securing our ropes, a group of about 5 guys with guitars loaded into a boat and took off. I said, “Wait, we tie up and you take the music away?” They laughingly said “Sorry” and took off. Later we found out that it was singer Tim McGraw and his guys. Who knew?? I also assisted a couple of women in small boat with their lines. (More on this later.)

QUEST AT THE LITTLE FARMERS CAY YACHT CLUB

Soon we were all comfy in our dockage and set off to walk the island. The government dock was busy with the boats shuttling back and forth from the anchored mailboat. We found the brightly colored post office there and the schoolhouse a little farther on.

DAN ENJOYING THE VIEW OF THE GOVERNMENT DOCK

THE PUBLIC SCHOOL THAT COVERS ALL GRADES

We wandered on to the west side and discovered the airport. Just too, too cute! We stopped to ask directions back to the marina from a guy by his airplane and he reaffirmed that we were heading in the right direction and said he would see us at the marina’s restaurant tonight. (Remember this guy)

THE AIRPORT (FAR) COMPLETE WITH ITS TERMINAL AND AIRPLANE

DAN IS READY TO TAKE OFF

As we approached the marina we saw that the red sailboat, Whisper, had arrived from Black Point and later had Marilyn and Vic over for cocktails before we headed for our dinner. We hope to have them show us the cave on Great Guana Cay tomorrow.

Dinner at the marina’s restaurant, Le Bleu, was truly enjoyable. We sat down at our table (the only patrons there) but were soon joined by three other folks. It was the two women from the dingy and the guy from the airport! Now if this wasn’t odd enough, they are all three from VERMONT. Steve and Cindy live here all winter and in Morristown, VT during the summer. They previously owned Pie in the Sky, the pizza restaurant in Stowe, VT.  Their friend, Tessa, is a dentist at the Stowe Family Dentistry. They fly in and out of Burlington all the time and will be on the lookout for Robert. What is that saying about “six degrees of separation”?

1/27/2011 BLACK POINT ANCHORAGE

 BIG MAJORS SPOT TO BLACK POINT ANCHORAGE

THURSDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 9 NM

After dealing with our breached credit card and hooking to the WI-FI at Staniel Cay, we pulled up the anchor and made a leisurely trip to Black Point. We joined the many other boats anchored just off the government dock and got settled in.

THE GOVERNMENT DOCK IN BLACK POINT

Time, once again, for the old laundry job! We gathered up our sheets and towels and dinked to Rockside Laundry (+ hardware, + marine supplies, + shell jewelry, + barber, + rooms to rent upstairs, + frozen meat pies, ++) Now this was a “happening place”. While the clothes were getting clean and dry, the lovely proprietor served out carrot cake ($1.00 per piece) then proceeded to make some of the best conch fritters (6 for $1.00) we have had so far. She then gave Dan a haircut then took her scissors on to the next customer. The place was packed with boaters and we met lots of new folks as well as some that we had met at Staniel.

BUSY DINGY DOCK AT THE ROCKSIDE

NOW THIS IS A REAL LAUNDROMAT

AND HAIRCUTS TOO!

By the time we had finished our laundry chores and purchased frozen empanada-like meat pies for our dinner, word had gotten passed around that Scorpio’s was having an unscheduled “Happy Hour” that evening for all the boater. Now he usually does this on Tuesdays and Fridays but someone talked him into an impromptu Thursday gathering. We rushed our things back to Quest and hurried back to join the gregarious group. There must have been 25-30 that joined in with the festivities.

THE BLACK POINT ANCHORAGE



1/25/2011 AND 1/26/2011 BIG MAJORS SPOT

ANCHORED IN BIG MAJORS SPOT

1/25/2011


TUESDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

ISLAND COLORS ON STANIEL CAY

We dinked just around the bend to charming Staniel Cay. This colorful little settlement has a quaint resort, a small airport, a couple tiny restaurants and two tiny markets. They make Grant’s Village Store look big. We walked around and explored the area, stopping to purchase some freshly baked coconut bread from the Titta Emil’s bright yellow home-bakery. You just knock on her back door and are invited into her kitchen to choose from the available bread displayed upon her table. Yummy, fresh baked bread!

WELCOME TO STANIEL CAY

CRISP, COLORFUL COTTAGES

TITA EMIL'S HOME BAKERY

We took time to have a little lunch at the casual, welcoming Staniel Cay Yacht Club. They are popular with the boaters and cottage guests alike and offer Wi-Fi (to purchase), a pool table and a couple of TVs tuned to the weather and sports.

The weather has been so windy that we have not been brave enough to explore the Thunderball Grotto that was made famous by Agent 007. We hope to get to it before departing.

We did, however, meet and feed the pigs that live on Big Majors Cay. As you dingy to the beach these eager freckled swine swim out begging for a handout. You can’t help but laugh at their eager greetings.

FEED ME!  FEED ME!

SUNSET FROM BIG MAJORS SPOT

1/26/2011

WEDNESDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

Wednesday is “Mailboat” day and everyone scrambles to Isles General Store to provision up. We found great produce and even some fresh milk.

ISLES GENERAL STORE ON THE GROUND FLOOR

WE MADE A HAUL WITH FRESH PRODUCE

I finally tried my hand at the stand-up paddle board and successfully maneuvered around the boat a couple of times. I had tried it in Mexico but the waters were just too “wavy” for chicken me. 

I MADE IT!

We had cocktails on the motor yacht Pirate with Janie and Jim. It was an enjoyable evening spent chatting and learning about the waters and ports that we may encounter. The Pirate is a lovely 1977, 65’ Hatteras. The clear skies offered a blanket of stars tonight, illuminating our way back to the Quest.

1/24/2011 COMPASS CAY TO BIG MAJORS SPOT

BIG MAJORS SPOT

MONDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 9 NM

After spending a night hooked to the shore power and charging our depleted batteries we bid “good bye” to Compass Cay and motored the short 9 NM to Big Majors Spot. We pulled into the already busy anchorage and were later joined by several more boats. By sundown there were 27 of us anchored in the large bay. The twinkling of anchor lights made for an enchanting night’s setting.

SO LONG COMPASS CAY MARINA

HELLO BIG MAJORS SPOT ANCHORAGE

1/21/2011 through 1/23/011

1/21/20110 WARDERICK MOORING TO COMPASS CAY MARINA


FRIDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 13 NM

With the sun showing his face above Hogs Cay, we began our day. We left our cozy mooring at Warderick Cay and headed the 13 NM to the safety of Compass Cay’s marina for the predicted upcoming blow.

THE SUN PEEKING OVER HOGS CAY

Maneuvering the tricky entrance channel and approaching our dock assignment in the swift current, we were startled to see the numerous nurse sharks hovering around, almost escorting us in. We found out later that these creatures are pets at the marina and folks both feed them and swim amongst them. They advise you not to try to do both at the same time. Imagine that!

MILK SHARK

The Bahamas are an expensive place to dock with the necessity of generating power and desalinating the sea to create drinking water. We are using our own power and water and will buy water when we leave the marina. The new inverter is an fabulous addition to the Quest. We can do just about everything but laundry and use the cook-top and oven. We can use the microwave and make coffee, use all the lights and even dry my hair. Why didn’t we do this sooner?!

We made the short hike over to the east side beach where we swam in the warm waters and lounged under the beach cabana. This is truly just how I dreamed the Bahamian sea would be. I really feel bad for all of you stuck in the Northeast’s frigid winter and even those of you boaters in Nassau and above that are experiencing the storms with cooler temps. Sea Estate and Blue Angel, get on down here!!

TAKING A DIP IN THE CRYSTAL WATERS

ENJOYING THE BEACH CABANA AFTER A SWIM

OK, so now I have met numerous people that have seen the “Green Flash” (it was seen here last week by several) and I am seriously seeking my own sighting of this rare phenomena. Not tonight though! You need clear skies for this and tonight’s western horizon was a bit cloudy. The clouds tend to contribute to a spectacular sunset and tonight was no exception.

NO GREEN FLASH BUT STILL ANOTHER BREATHTAKING SUNSET

1/22/2011 COMPASS CAY MARINA

SATURDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

OUR BEAUTIFUL VISTA FROM THE BEACH

After lolling the morning away, we sat off on a two hour hike about 11:00. About three and ½ hours later we made our way back to Quest after reaching our destination of the far north end of the island. There was a drenching rain, rugged rocks, sandy beach and a rewarding swim when we made it back to the marina’s beach. Flotsam and jetsam were picked up along the way so Dan could create a Quest sign to leave with the marina’s collection.

1/23/2011

SUNDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

This morning was devoted to cleaning Quest. Both fridges were defrosted, windows and mirrors cleaned, bathrooms scrubbed and all the floors done. Whew! We need a diversion.

Dan had finished his Quest Sign in-between vacuuming and we hung that with the rest of Tucker’s collection then set off on another hike.

CREATIVE DAN

AND HIS MASTERPIECE HUNG WITH TUCKER'S COLLECTION

This time we covered the south and east side of the island. Yesterday’s storm left the waters churning and we were happy to be still tied up and not traveling.

AT THE BEGINNING OF THE TRAIL

EACH VIEW CONTRIBUTES TO THE DREAMY VISTAS

DIFFERENT KINDS OF TRAIL MARKERS

One of the boats that came in yesterday, “my reward” remembered seeing us in Jacksonville, Florida when we were both docked there last May. Small world! Dan ended up watching the football game with them and “chewing the fat” .

WATCHING SUNDAY FOOTBALL IN STYLE

1/17/2011 THROUGH 1/20/2011 ANDROS TO WARDRICK WELLS CAY

1/17/2011 ANDROS


MONDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

Today didn’t go as expected due to the continuing winds. It was one more day in Andros.

We used our time for some little chores. Dan worked on cleaning out some obsolete electrical equipment and tidying up the wiring in the port engine room. I took my Androsia Batik fabric and made a pair of pants. Since the sizing was way off it took several attempts to get it right but, finally, I met with success. Since there was adequate fabric left over, I hemmed up a table cloth too.

The sped by and soon the sun had set and night was creeping in. The weather still looked good for tomorrow’s planned crossing.

1/18/2011 ANDROS TO NORMANS CAY ANCHORAGE

TUESDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 52 NM

Talk about a rain storm!! About 1:00 AM the storm front reached us and we got a taste of what Key West, Marathon and Bimini were experiencing yesterday. Unfortunately, Dan’s computer and phone were near an open window in the salon and both got a drenching. The phone looks to be OK but his ancient computer may have succumbed to the bath.

By 8:15 we were untied and heading out in the slack high tide. Now this was the weather window we had been wishing for. The seas were relatively calm and the winds almost nonexistent.

The joint presence of the US Navy and the Royal Navy was evident as we slipped out of Fresh Creek. One of their boats was out in the channel doing some of their ultra secret undersea testing and evaluation. The choppers from the base were hovering above and a boat transferred someone to the ship.

SUPER SECRET RESEARCH HELICOPTER

NAVAL RESEARCH SHIP

We chose Norman Cay as our first stop in the Northern Exhumas. It is known for its role in the bad old days of Bahamian drug trading. Before Carlos Leder’s operation was infiltrated by the “Feds”, his enclave here was the site of purported murders and a plane crash. The remains of the wreck was right next to our chosen anchorage.

WRECK FROM THE DRUG WAR DAYS

Once we found our place at the end of a line of anchored sailboats, we took our first dip in the Bahamian waters then settled in for an evening on the hook.

PICTURE PERFET ISLAND SETTING

<>

SUNSET AT NORMANS CAY

1/19/2011 NORMANS CAY ANCHORAGE TO HAWKSBILL CAY MOORING BALL

WEDNESDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 10 NM

What a peaceful night at anchor. The only disturbing factor was the full, luminescent moon shining into my window. Sunrise was breathtaking!

SUNRISE OVER THE WATER

We dropped the dink and took off exploring the many little islands dotting the waters. We found our first intact sand dollars for the entire trip today. In fact, we found four of the beauties. Dan also found a perfect conch shell, devoid of its inhabitant yet not cut as if harvested. The water depth was extremely shallow and we crept along in the dingy much of the time,

By noon we had pulled up anchor and were headed on our way. Our next stop was a short hop to the mooring balls at Hawksbill Cay. We had this all to ourselves for swimming, sunning and even a little stand-up paddling. Boy, it has been a long time since Dan has been able to do that!

DAN ON HIS BOARD

Dan heralded in the spectacular sunset and simultaneous full moon rising with his newly acquired conch shell. He really does a pretty good job tooting the shell!

SALUTING THE SETTING SUN

SUNSET

MOON RISE

1/20/2011 HAWKSBILL CAY TO MOORING BETWEEN WARDERICK WELLS CAY AND HOGS CAY

THURSDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 19 NM

SPINY STARFISH UNDER WATER AT OUR BOW

Totally enjoying our leisurely pace, we dinked to the island which is part of the Exuma Cay Park. Our stroll yielded glimpses of a hummingbird, a nest and a perky lizard. Unfortunately, our small camera is officially “dead” and we have to get into the habit of waterproofing our Cannon and taking it with us until we replace the other. Later we rode to the southern mooring field to deposit our mooring fee in the box provided by the park. Dan also gave his board another whirl around the bay before we packed up and departed by 10:30.

PAYING FOR LASTNIGHT'S MOORING

Our destination, Warderick Wells Cay, is home to the headquarters of the 176-square mile area of Exuma Cay Land and Sea Park. Founded in 1958, this area was set aside as a safety zone to promote the replenishment of native species. That means no fishing, hunting, shelling or gathering of conch or lobsters. It is truly a beautiful setting for all to appreciate.

We moored in a lovely waterway that lies between Warderick Well Cay and Hogs Cay. The waters range from aqua to sky blue to a deep lapis. There are birds chirping all around us and yellow tail snapper swimming right at our swim step. Wow!! We are taking the dingy to the office and hope to secure some WI-Fi service and post the last few days of news.

LOOK AT THE STARTELING COLORS OF THE WATER