02/20/2012 THE ISLAND OF CULEBRA

Image via Wikipedia02/20/2012 CULEBRA


MONDAY

28 NM TRAVELED

ANCHORED IN ENSENADA HONDA JUST OFF THE TOWN OF DEWEY

SUNRISE: 6:47 AM IN VIEQUES

SUNSET: 6: 24 PM IN CULEBRA




UP, UP AND AWAY



HANG ON!!!

Today’s ride from Viaques to Culebra was a tad more rolly that the last couple of days and Robert and Steffi took some photos that might stretch the actual truth just a mite. Before long we were approaching the charming island and dropping anchor in Ensenada Honda.  Boy were we outnumbered! I think there were 40-something sailing vessels and only one other motor yacht anchored around little Pirate Cay.

  

Robert and Steffi had grabbed the scrub brush, washing cloth and the window squeegee before we were even fully anchored. Zip, Zip, Zip and the Quest was lightly wiped down to get rid of at least some of the salt residue.

We took the con- to the Dingy Dock for lunch and had one of the best meals in a long time. The daily lunch special of fried pork and the quesadillas were delicious. But then again, what isn’t improved upon by a little frying?! The posted street sign stating “OPEN SOME DAYS, CLOSED OTHERS” seemed to sum up the laid back attitude of this charming island retreat. Those seeking a little step back in time either take the ferry from mainland Puerto Rico, grab a quick flight to the tiny but busy airport or sail over as we have done.

                     DINGY DOCK

GUESS THIS KIND'A SAYS IT ALL

Our little con-Quest was just perfect for today’s exploring. We slid under the bright orange lift bridge (though I don’t think it has seen any lifting action for eons) and headed up the eastern shore of Culebra. We stopped for a quick swim in Tamarindo Beach, explored the old gun turret and pined for or forgotten snorkeling gear as we stopped off the national Wildlife Refuge on Luis Pena Cay .

THE OLD LIFT-LESS LIFT BRIDGE

JUST CRUZIN

With Tim from The Wirie Co on the phone, Dan and Robert finally got things aligned, signed into and lit-up for takeoff. I am very happy to report the Wirie is up and working, at least in Culebra.

02/19/2012 VIEQUES

02/19/2012 SUN BAY, VIEQUES


SUNDAY

46 NM TRAVELED

ANCHORED IN SUN BAY JUST EAST OF ESPERANZA ON VIEQUES ISLAND

SUNRISE: 6:52 AM

SUNSET: 6: 24 PM

Dan had one little chore to complete before we set off this morning. He installed our replacement solar anchor light. Our old one had gotten broken and we finally got a new one in the Ponce Home Depot. Even though we use our bright anchor light, this one acts as a supplement and goes on automatically if we happen to forget.

SEE MY LITTLE LIGHT THINGY WAY UP TOP??

Vieques Island, today’s destination, is part of the Spanish Virgin Islands. It is known historically as the sight of protests lodged against the US Navy's continued use of the island as a bombing range and testing grounds. Due to those widespread protests the Navy departed from the Island in 2006 but you'd best not be picking  up any strange metal devices off the beach!!! 

We sailed along the southern coast of Puert Rico then cut right across to Esperanza on the southern shore of Viequez.  Passing up the anchorage right in front of the village of Esperanza,  we preceded a little further to drop the hook in Sun Bay. The beach was sandy, the water clear and warmish and the setting divine. Unfortunately the side swells had us rolling just a bit too much for comfort so Quest got a stern anchor that alleviated the problem.

ROBERT CATCHING SOME RAYS

STEFFI TRYING TO CAPTURE THE MAGIC WITH PHOTOS

NOT SUCH A BAD VIEW FROM OUR BACK DOOR!

QUEST AT REST

With all our swimming and anchoring done, we hopped into the con-Quest and jammed over to the bustling town of Esperanza. Passing through the anchorage area we spied S/V Meant To Be and chatted just long enough to find that they are leaving tomorrow for St. John. Funny how you keep running into the same cruisers.

Esperanza was a beehive of activity. The local were enjoying their long weekend and folks from both Vermont and Massachusetts had descended here for their much needed “winter break”. We shared some great ribs at Belly Buttons while we used their Wi-Fi to check up on the cruising weather predictions. Next we snapped up a bacalaitos from a street vendor. These savory ‘pancakes’ are made with codfish, tomatoes and sofrito in a flour batter that is pried. Yummy!!

THE TOWN OF ESPERANZA

It was full-on dark when we made our way back to Quest and the night’s sky displayed a huge array of twinkling lights for our enjoyment. There is a short Robert Louise Stevenson’s poem from A Child’s Garden of Verses that I remember reading as a youngster. It kind of sums up how extremely fortunate I feel.

Happy Thought

The world is so full of a number of things,

I'm sure we should all be as happy as kings.

 

2/18/2012 BEATING A PATH TO SAN JUAN BEFORE THE SUN RISES

02/18/2012  SALINAS, PUERTO RICO

SATURDAY

30 NM TRAVELED

ANCHORED OFF PUNTO POZUELO JUST EAST OF SALINAS, PUERTO RICO

SUNRISE: 6:52 AM

SUNSET: 6: 29 PM

Talk about “0’dark:30”! Leaving the marina before 3:30 this morning, just after the Friday night partiers at the nearby cantinas gave it up at 3:00, afforded us no traffic. Dan did have to pay close attention to those few cars that were on the road, most likely some of those late night partiers.

Heading east then north to get us up and over the interior mountain range brought us to San Juan in under 1 ½ hours. We did discover that the compliance of a red light’s command to stop seems to be optional at that time of the morning and it took both of us, at full attention, to watch the few cars on the road. Robert and Steffi were lucky to get on the ‘red-eye’ JetBlue flight from JFK at the last possible moment when some poor souls missed their connection. The original plan was to fly into Ponce’s airport on the lightly booked flight but those liquid plans changed several times during the day as late bookers decided they must to Puerto Rico’s southern shore for the holiday weekend. However, they did make it and we were so glad to see them.

Stopping for a 6:15 breakfast at our little local hole-in-the-wall café, we were all pumped up with coffee and sated with omelets. Back on Quest Robert and Steffi unpacked and settled in before Robert began assisting Dan in his attempt to get the Wirie up and running. Out of pure frustration at my inability to hook to the marina’s Wi-Fi, I headed to the office with hopes of some advice. Good thing! It seems that their Wi-Fi system was down and under scrutiny for its wayward performance during the last few days. Whew! At least now I could quit beating myself up trying to get it going. They kindly hooked me right up to their office line and I diligently worked on posting my delinquent blog. Meanwhile, Dan and Robert were successful in setting up the Wirie but still unable to hook up due to no Wi-Fi. Oh well, maybe later.

WE'RE ALL FAT AND SASSY AFTER A GOOD BREAKFAST

With all our work done we brought in our power cords, water hose, ramps and ropes. Time to set off for new places.

With lovely sailing conditions Quest lazily headed east. There were a few short naps taken along with some sunning on the deck and a little light reading. By 2:30 we were anchoring east of Salinas and ready to tender back to the town for some exploration.

The lovely Salinas appeared to have a strong middle class population. There were several beach side cantinas geared towards the tourist trade, small but tidy homes and a nice little resort with a marina. On our way back we managed to mostly stay out of the pounding rain but were rewarded with a rainbow. I guess that is the sign of a really good day.

HANGING OUR WITH THE FISHERMEN IN SALINAS

RAINBOW OVER THE BAY

02/17/2012 CARNIVAL IN PONCE

vejigantes (Photo credit: digitizedchaos)02/17/2012  PONCE, PUERTO RICO

FRIDAY

0 NM TRAVELED

DOCKED AT PONCE YACHT AND FISHING CLUB                                                                     

SUNRISE: 6:53 AM

SUNSET: 6: 29PM

Well, Dan was an extremely busy boy today. Not only did he get the Wirie installed and wired in but he also fabricated the cables and installed the new batteries. Unfortunately, we can’t seem to get the Wirie hooked up but we are learning patience.

THE WIRIE INSTALLED AND, AND , AND--------
MAYBE TOMORROW WE WILL FIGURE IT OUT

We finally made it into downtown tonight for a little street-walking and sightseeing only to find the street blocked off. We just parked our little ride and we stuck our noses in to see just what was happening. As luck would have it (that would be our good luck), it was Ponce’s night for celebrating Carnival with a parade. The little girls were duded up in their fairy princess best for the official Crowning of the Child Queen on this lovely Friday evening while the guys dressed in the traditional Vejigantes (the devil or evilness) costumes. They would go around smacking innocents with their blown cow bladders or inflatable clubs to ward off evil spirits. We chowed-down on the superb street-food while watching the little girls prance, the bands blast and the Vejigantes whack.

LAST YEAR'S QUEEN LEADS THE PARADE

REIGNING ON STAGE

AN UNMASKED VEJIGANTES

02/16/2012 FINDING BATTERIES FOR QUEST

02/16/2012 PONCE, PUERTO RICO

THURSDAY

0 NM TRAVELED

DOCKED AT PONCE YACHT AND FISHING CLUB (PYFC)
http://www.ponceyachtandfishingclub.com/
O/A $1.63 FT. INCLUDING WATER AND POWER

SUNRISE: 6:54 AM

SUNSET: 6:28 PM

Upon recommendations, we walked to the nearby Cash and Carry warehouse type store and breakfasted with the workers in the tiny, adjacent café. Mighty fine! After giving the store a quick ‘once over’ and deciding to return with transportation, we walked back to the marina in time for our Enterprise Car delivery. The marina has worked out a deal with them for a much discounted rate, they cheerfully pick you up and you can just leave the car at the marina when you depart. Thank you Enterprise!

FOR A GREAT BREAKFAST, JUST FOLLOW THE LABOR FORCE
TO THEIR FAVORITE HAUNT

Dan was on a mission to secure four additional batteries to allow us to anchor longer without running the bloody generator. We wandered around the streets in the industrial area until we found a promising site. From here we were given vague directions to another place “near the Home Depot and Wal-Mart---over there”. Onward! Dan dropped me off at the Wal-Mart and continued his search. Bingo! Not only did he find a place to purchase the large golf cart type batteries but was give some valuable information regarding the proposed purchase. It was recommended that we NOT buy our four batteries from them but, instead, proceed to the Sam’s Club in Mayaguez back on the west coast of Puerto Rico.

As we headed west we passed places we had seen from our sea journey to Ponce. First there was the highly industrial Guayanilla with its tanks and stacks. What came next took my breath away. The hillside overlooking the pueblo of Yauco presented a kaleidoscope with bits of color everywhere. I discovered that Yauco is known as El Pueblo del Café (the coffee city) but nowhere can I find a history or explanation for the brilliantly painted slopes.

THE COLORFUL HILLSIDE OVERLOOKING YAUCO

Within about an hour we had not only made it back to Boquerón but further north to our destination in Mayaguez. They did, indeed, have four of the car type batteries that we sought. Even after joining Sam’s club we still saved over $100.00 on each one. Well worth the journey.

Back at the marina we discovered that our previously ordered treasures had arrived. First were the new towel clips that allow us to secure towels and thing to the metal railing for air-drying. The old ones were a rusted mess. And best of all, our new Wirie device had arrived. This should tremendously boost our capabilities for hooking into available Wi-Fi at marinas, something we really need. Dan did some of the mounting and will finish the installation tomorrow. Hurray!!!!

THE NEW FISHY CLIPS READY TO ASSIST IN OUR DRYING NEEDS

02/15/2012 SAILING ON TO PONCE

02/15/2012 PONCE, PUERTO RICO



WEDNESDAY

18 NM TRAVELED

DOCKED AT PONCE YACHT AND FISHING CLUB (PYFC)
http://www.ponceyachtandfishingclub.com/
O/A $1.63 FT. INCLUDING WATER AND POWER

SUNRISE: 6:55 AM

SUNSET: 6:28 PM

Another lovely morning in Paradise! After pulling up the hook we pulled out of our quiet little anchorage, skirted around Gilligan’s Island and headed east.

It didn’t take us long to realize that we were heading back into civilization. The harbor at Guayanilla was littered with an oil refinery, a powerhouse, a trash burning installation, loading and unloading facilities at the monolithic docks and a hillside peppered with storage tanks. Guess this is what it takes to keep us lit and fueled.



THE BUSY PORT OF GUAYANILLA



TANKER TRANSPORTING VALUABLE FUEL

Preparing to enter the Ponce Harbor, we heard S/V Meant To Be requesting permission to approach the PYFC’s fuel dock to take on some energy for their immediate departure for ports further east. We gave them a shout, wished them safe sailing and wished for better timing to meet up again.

THE LIGHTHOUSE AS WE ENTER PONCE

WE WAVED TO MEANT TO BE AS THEY HEADED OUT OF PONCE

PONCE YACHT AND FISHING CLUB

The fuel dock is a bustling place with folk not only taking on fuel and water but resting spot for boats to clear US Customs. We had to idle about, finally dropping our hook, before garnering space at the dock to take on fuel.

Speaking of Customs and Immigration, Dan observed the captain of an anchored sailing vessel in a verbal tussle with our government representatives. It appears this Frenchman chose to ignore the more than generous U.S. regulations and had been in the country for several days before finally calling to check in. After being told to remain in his boat until the officials arrived, he came to shore and dumped his trash. After so blatantly ignoring the rules and directions given by the officials, he was told to return to his vessel, gather all pertinent documentation, make arrangements to get to the Customs and Immigration Office in Ponce and be prepared to pay a $1,000.00 fine or surrender his boat to be impounded. So much easier to just follow the rules!

BAD BOAT!  BAD, BAD BOAT!!!!!

02/14/2012 VALENTINE DAY EXPLORING ENSENADA AND GILLIGAN'S ISLAND

02/14/2012 ENSENADA AND GILLIGANS ISLAND

GUANICA (GWAH-knee-kah), PUERTO RICO

TUESDAY

0 NM TRAVELED

ANCHORED EAST OF GUANICA BY GILLIGAN’S ISLAND

SUNRISE: 6:56 AM

SUNSET: 6:29 PM

Since we were staying put in our anchorage today we spent the time exploring the area. First of all, Dan spent a couple of hours on the con- searching for some fish but returned empty handed. He was a still a happy camper after bobbing around, casting to his heart’s content.

THE FISHING GOD DOTH RETURN

Guanica, in the bay just west of our anchorage, is home to a huge, old fertilizer facility that dominates the eastern part of its bay. Just a tad further west is Ensenada, once a thriving sugar mill town. We tied up con-Quest to a little dock right by the police building after and, after being challenged by the resident iguana, climbed ashore to see what we could see.

THE HUGE FERTILIZER FACILITY IN THE GUANICA BAY

ENSENADA'S CANE DAYS ARE LONG GONE BUT REMNANTS REMAIN

IGUANA WITH A TAIL WITH ATTITUDE

In Ensenada we found swarms of school kids off for lunch, a pet store, a hardware shop, a couple of small shops, cafes and an impressive sports field.

Even though we had to walk the con- the last bit over the shallows, we finally made it to Gilligan’s Island. The white sand beaches, mangroves and clear water paths with lazy flowing currents attract lots of visitors. The ferry, basically a shallow draft pontoon boat, shuttles people from the shores of Guanica all day. This state park makes a perfect afternoon getaway.

ONE OF THE MANY LITTLE BEACHES ON GILLIGAN'S ISLAND

Trying to avoid the approaching rain, we hustled back to Quest just ahead of a major down pour. We contented ourselves with some reading, a few rounds of Yahtzee (Dan ruled) and the movie of the night, Crank. I have no idea where we acquired this DVD but don’t bother putting it on your list of movies to see. Rubbish!!

02/13/2013GILLIGAN'S ISLAND ANCHORAGE

02/13/2012 GILLIGAN’S ISLAND


GUANICA, PUERTO RICO

MONDAY

32 NM TRAVELED

ANCHORED NEAR GUANICA AT BY GILLIGAN’S ISLAND

SUNRISE: 6:57 AM

SUNSET: 6:28 PM

When we were all checked out and ready to leave the marina we discovered that Meant To Be came across from Samana yesterday and they, too, were continuing on this morning. They have family in St. Johns and pushed on to Ponce today in an attempt to make up for the month spent in Samana waiting for a favorable weather window to cross the Mona Passage.

As for today’s conditions I can only say “Hanson Smooth”. For those of you that don’t know what that means, it means smooth, smooth, smooth! Our friends, the Porters, experienced some less than stellar conditions crossing from Cabo San Lucas to Puerto Vallarta on the Quest and, thus, rough waters are often referred to as “Porter Rough”. The Hansons, who first came aboard in Puerto Vallarta, experienced calm and glassy conditions and those dreamy sea journeys are now referred to as Hanson Smooth.

The waters are becoming cleaner and more opaque as we near the legendary Virgin Islands. While cruising in 40 feet today we could make out the sea grass on the bottom. We did see a turtle floating and several flying fish skipping across the water’s surface.

We passed by the southern sights we saw yesterday in con-Quest and rounded the point at the Cabo Rojo Lighthouse. We are now on Puerto Rico’s southern coast and, since we have a relatively short journey to Ponce where Robert and Steffi will join us on Saturday, we dropped the hook early in the day.

CABO ROJO LIGHTHOUSE FROM QUEST

Our night’s anchorage is just east of Guanica by the little Gilligan’s Island. Earlier called Cayo Aurora, the island was once inhabited by a woman that escaped from the harsh mistreatment of workers at the nearby La Ballena farm. She created her haven and lived off the sea and land until a ripe old age. In a nearer era the island was dubbed Gilligan’s Island after the 1970’s television program of that name.

OUR ANCHORAGE AREA

GILLIGAN'S ISLAND

Dan occupied his afternoon by repairing some of our worn ropes and an attempt at catching fish while I contented myself with reading up on the area and typing up the blog information. Even though I am unable to post it while at anchor, if I don’t keep it written, I totally forget the basic who, what, where, when and why.

DAN REWEAVING THE ROPE ENDS AND JUDY'S BLOGGING MESS

DAN QUITE HAPPY IN THE LITTLE con-