11/21/2011 ACROSS THE ALBEMARLE SOUND AND ON TO BELHAVEN

MONDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 70 NM

DOCKED AT: DOWRY CREEK MARINA IN BELHAVEN, NC ($1.65 /FT W/P OVERALL)

SUNRISE: 6:47 AM IN COINJOCK SUNSET: 4:57 PM IN BELHAVEN

HIGH: 72 LOW: 57

We didn’t quite make our goal of departing by 6:30 but only missed by 15 minutes. It was drizzling and flocks of mosquitoes mysteriously appeared, engulfing us as we scurried about trying to get away from the dock. We were rewarded with a splendid rose-colored sky as the sun continued to rise.

AN OUTSTANDING MORNING SKY

Quest crossed the expansive Albemarle Sound in slightly choppy conditions, passed through the opening of the Alligator River Swing Bridge and entered the shelter of the Alligator River. This bridge cannot be opened in winds greater than 35 knots but it posed no problem in today’s light breeze.

ALBEMARLE SWING BRIDGE

The rich, coffee colored waters here are tinted with the natural tannins that leech from the roots and decaying leaves of the cypress and juniper trees we see lining the shores. This stained water is not dirty and was, in fact, a highly sought commodity by the early sailors because it would sore for long periods of time without spoiling. For us boaters it just means we have to work a little harder at the maintenance. The “ICW moustache” is definitely back!

EVIDENCE OF THE TANNIN IS SEEN IN THE RICHLY COLORED FOAM

We were constantly in view of other boats all day today, passing some and being passed by others. The race to the warmer southern climate is certainly on.

FOLLOWING 2 SAILBOATS AND A TRAWLER IN THE ALLIGATOR RIVER

It was amazingly calm in the Pungo River, almost eerie. We were happy to pull into Dowry Creek Marina after a long day’s run and were greeted with helping hands and an invitation to the 5:00 cocktail party in the boater’s lounge. We wasted no time but got right to the docking chores and were ready, cocktails in hand, in plenty of time to join the other transients as well as live-ins that populated the marina. They do this every night and it’s a great way to meet fellow travelers or learn about the area.

STRIKING END TO THE DAY

4/28/2011 ALLIGATOR RIVER MARINA, ACROSS THE ALBBEMARLE SOUND TO ELIZABETH CITY

THURSDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 30 NM

DOCKED AT: ELIZABETH CITY MARINERS’ WHARF

ICW MILE MARKER: 50.9

SUNRISE: 6:16      SUNSET: 7:49

HIGH: 83               LOW: 68

NO BRIDGES OPENED TODAY:

We made it out of the relatively calm waters at the marina and into the swiftly flowing Alligator River. Due to high winds, the swing bridge we passed through yesterday was not opening but the bridge tender did wish us luck in our day’s travels through the river and crossing the Albemarle Sound. That should have been our first clue!! We knew the conditions were going to be less than ideal with the raging tornado systems that have been decimating the countryside. No tornado for us today but plenty of tornado watches, rain and an evening thunder and lightning storm.

ROCKY WATERS AT THE BRIDGE

Having made it across the sound, we gratefully crept into the Pasquotank River (the first river in the country to receive an Underground Railroad Network designation) and approached Elizabeth City. Nearing the city we passed an old WW II dirigible hanger that now houses a blimp-building firm. You can see evidence of their daily work in their yard. We next passed the USCG Air Station, Elizabeth City. This is home to the largest and most diverse Coast Guard command in the nation.

THE HUGE WWII HANGER TO THE LEFT AND TWO BLIMPS AT RIGHT

We were, thankfully, greeted at Elizabeth City’s wall by two fellow boaters who assisted by grabbing our lines and lending muscle to help us get tied up in the blowing wind. Thanks so much!

 HELPING HANDS GOT US SAFELY TIED UP

QUEST IN ELIZABETH CITY

We dropped in at the Visitors’ Center then took a quick walk around town before going through the lovely Museum of the Albemarle. Here we got a glimpse of this area’s developmental process from the first Indian inhabitants, followed by the expanding colonist movement that brought the need for slaves to harvest their crops and dig their canal. Next came the War of 1812 in which the canal played a huge part by providing a link between Albemarle and the blockaded Chesapeake. The Civil War years brought division in allegiances but, as we all know, the Union was victorious and the healing process began. We also discovered that what is now known as the USCG developed from a small organization in North Carolina known as the US Life Saving Service.

And then the rains came!! We had thunder, we had lightening and some of it was close, really close. Once the front passed by we were left with a delightful evening devoid of the oppressive humidity and perfect sleeping weather.