12/16/2011 LAST DAY IN BIMINI

12/16/2011 BIMINI


FRIDAY

SUNRISE

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

DOCKED AT BIMINI BLUE WATER RESORT
     $1.00/FOOT AND $20.00 /POWER=$73.00

SUNRISE IN BIMINI: 6:56 AM

SUNSET IN BIMINI: 5:29 PM

HIGH: 79

LOW: 73

There is always something going on in Bimini. The dredges head out to get into position for their day’s work about 6:30. Ferries shuttle folks back and forth for school and work. Fishermen head out in search of the big one. Two of the sailboats in the marina began their journey to Nassau today but one got hung up on the encroaching sandbar, sooner or later we all do. With a little patience the incoming tide allowed them to sail off and continue on.

Ah, the smell of clean laundry! I paid a visit to the local Laundromat and came home with sparkling clean linens and clothes but a case of sticker shock too. When you live in paradise where everything comes in by ship and the precious water must be desalinated by reverse osmosis, you must pay the price.

CAN'T YOU JUST SMELL THE DRYING LAUNDRY?

More and more holiday decorations go up each day. There was a Christmas party for the local children in front of the government building; complete with giggles, dotting parents, and Santa hats but no snow.

CHRISTMAS PARTY FOR THE CHILDREN

HERE COMES THE DRUMS

What a surprise to look up and find a float plane landing in the waters just off our starboard. He dropped down just a pretty as you please then in the late afternoon; off he went into the wild, blue yonder. Way cool!

TROPIC OCEAN FLOAT PLANE

Two more coats of varnish went onto the wood today and everything done looks great. We will have to add several more coats but now it is protected for our run to the Berry Islands tomorrow. I suppose we have to face the nasty sanding again when we commence refinishing the side wood and the railing on the back but poor Dan deserves a break.

We caught our last Bimini sunset then walked the beach in the fading light, pausing to inspect the old wrecked ship then moving on to the little cemetery and finally stopping for a drink at the new Koko Plums.

THE SUN DESCENT HIDDEN BEHIND THE CLOUDS

FADING BELOW THE HORIZON

KIND OF AN ERIE SIGHT LOOKING THROUGH THE
WRECKED SS SAPONA

CHECKING OUT THE LITTLE CEMETERY

DAN DRINKING A KALIK, THE BAHAMIAN BEER
THE NAME KALIK COMES FROM THE SOUND OF THE COWBELLS THAT
KALIK, KALIK DURING THE THE JUNKANOO PARADES

12/15/2011 GOING AGROUND (BUT NOT US!)

BIMINI


THURSDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

DOCKED AT BIMINI BLUE WATER RESORT
     $1.00/FOOT AND $20.00/POWER=$73.00

SUNRISE IN BIMINI: 6:56 AM

SUNSET IN BIMINI: 5:29 PM

HIGH: 78

LOW: 72

Quest received her third and fourth coats of varnish today. With only a light sanding between coats it is moving much faster now. We hope to apply two more coats tomorrow then we should be traveling on Saturday.

With our morning varnishing session done we jumped on our bikes for a ride to the hardware store. Oops! Flat tire! Thankfully we caught it before leaving and Dan gave it a quick pump-up that held for the ride. It just gave us one more thing to look for at the hardware store.

CAN YOU SAY "FLAT"?

Lunch today was the ultimate Bimini experience. The local lunch wagon (make that a station wagon) parks in front of the Straw Mart and dishes up scrumptious plate lunches to those of us lucky enough to be there at the right time. Her $7.00 plates might feature a generous portion of fish, chicken, stuffed lobster, conch chowder, meatloaf or various other tasty items. Then there is always rice and two sides that you may choose. Mac-N-Cheese is a Bahamian staple but sides may also include potato salad and mixed vegetables. We feasted on fish and chicken with lots left over for tomorrow. If you venture to Alice Town, don’t miss this treat.

ROADSIDE DINER

YUMMY!

Needing some kick-back time we hopped in the tender for an enjoyable ride. Well, maybe not so much. Exiting the shelter of the harbor we encountered the real force of the gusting wind and decided not to venture too far. We did find what we assessed to be a “fishing boat hotel” and its fleet of boats. The paying guests go out in the little boats seeking nearby prime hot spots and, hopefully, return to the mother boat for meals and lodging. Even the hardy “fishing guys” had abandoned their hunt and were safely back on the large boat.

ALL THE FISHERMEN WERE ALREADY BACK HAVING EARLY COCKTAILS
AND TALKING ABOUT THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY

Thursdays in Alice Town are busy with the weekly mail and supply boat’s arrival. The Emerald Express comes across from Florida with supplies for all the stores and resorts as well as the mail. This week the excitement was stepped up a bit when the captain managed to ground her while as he attempted to give the dredge operation a wide berth. Needless to say, his exit came to an abrupt halt as tugs pushed, locals shouted out encouragement or taunts and everyone waited for the incoming tide to accomplish what man or machine could not. I’m thinking that captain was some pissed!

THE EMERALD ISLE HEADING OUT
(AND BEFORE SHE RAN AGROUND)

We enjoyed a fun evening at the Bimini Big Game Club when all the boaters from Blue Water Marina ended up there for drinks, dinner or just dessert. I think we ended up with ten adults and three kids. Lots of tales were told advice given and received.

12/14/2011BRIGHTWORK CONTINUED

12/14/2011 BIMINI


WEDNESDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

DOCKED AT BIMINI BLUE WATER RESORT
     $1.00/FOOT AND $20.00/POWER=$73.00

SUNRISE IN BIMINI: 6:55 AM

SUNSET IN BIMINI: 5:28 PM

HIGH: 77

LOW: 68

Work, work, work! “All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy” and this work stuff is getting old. While Dan sanded the margin of brightwork around the top, I made my first batch of banana bread in ages. Yesterday’s first coat looked great and we applied a second coat today. Looking good!

PRECARIOUSLY BALANCED ON THE RIM WHILE APPLYING VARNISH

For those of you that might not know, the brightwork refers to the varnished woodwork on a boat. It can, however, also refer to highly polished brass, bronze or stainless steel.

By late afternoon we were both ready to get back into that island mode, kicking back, reading, musing the world’s problems (not!) and napping. We did put some effort into walking the block or so to the west side and watching the sun set over the horizon.

12/13/2011 BRIGHTWORK IN BIMINI


TUESDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

DOCKED AT BIMINI BLUE WATER RESORT
     $1.00/FOOT AND $20.00/POWER=$73.00

SUNRISE IN BIMINI: 6:55 AM

SUNSET IN BIMINI: 5:28 PM

HIGH:  80

LOW:  72

It was Captain Bob’s for breakfast this morning. This legendary eatery caters to early rising fishermen as well as locals by opening at 6:30 AM seven days a week. Bob and Bonnie Smith opened up over 40 years ago and ran the place until Bob’s death in 2001. Bonnie then sold to a former employee, Esther Edgecombe, and who upholds the tradition of a great, early morning breakfast.

CAPTAIN BOB'S FOR BREAKFAST

Ugh! Time to get on the brightwork. Our last effort in March was not such a great job and now it is in dire need of some TLC. Dan had the little power sander out and really cleaned it up. We worked on the two long handrails from the helm doors forward. First it was sand, sand, sand then wiping down with both mineral spirits and a tack-rag and finally the first coat of diluted varnish went on. Looking good! During the next few days we will lightly sand and reapply several coats of the varnish. We will also attempt to include more areas of the wood each day.

NOT A PRETTY SIGHT WHEN WE BEGAN WORKING

DAN THE MAN SANDING

SANDING DONE AND READY FOR THE FIRST COAT OF VARNISH

FIRST COAT DONE!

What a mess we were! Sawdust clung to our hair and coated every visible body part. Showers were indeed a welcome event.

While trying to recuperate from our intense day of work we heard a ruckus out on the street. We, along with everyone else in the marina, rushed out to see just what was going on. A parade!! We all felt our “smile index” rising as the revelers marched on to the church for a Christmas celebration. What a nice surprise for us visitors.

THE PARADE WAS A WELCOMED DIVERSION
LOOK AT THOSE HAPPY FACES

12/12/2011 BUMMIN' AROUND IN BIMINI

BIMINI

MONDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

DOCKED AT BIMINI BLUE WATER RESORT
     $1.00/FOOT AND $20.00 POWER=$73.00

SUNRISE IN BIMINI: 6:54 AM

SUNSET IN BIMINI: 5:28 PM

HIGH: 80

LOW:  71

There is just something about Bimini that works its way into your heart. You can’t walk down the narrow streets without being greeted by every passing walker, biker, golf cart rider or motorist. “How’s it going?” “Good morning.” “Beautiful day, isn’t it?” Every one greets you with a smile. That is almost everyone. At Bimini’s General Store the proprietress answered our greetings with a surly “Well, it’s not a good morning here!” Seems they woke to a boat catastrophe this morning, a leaking something on their boat-home, and she didn’t have the necessary parts to make the repairs. Lucky for us we found just what we needed, The Explorer Chart Book for the Near Bahamas. This tiny store is a gem. It stocks hardware, marine supplies, kitchen gadgets and even an artificial Christmas tree.

The Straw Market where charming Bahamian women sell souvenirs daily was all decked out for the holidays with red and green streamers, a Christmas tree and a Nativity Scene. They are ready!

THE STRAW MARKET'S CHRISTMAS TREE

THE NATIVITY SCENE REMINDS US OF THE TRUE SPIRIT OF CHRISTMAS



THE OLD AND THE NEW



The old shipwreck on the western shore is slowly being reclaimed by the sea. We noticed the difference since we last saw it in February. Notice the Pacific M/Y in the distance.

THE PACIFIC'S NEW ANCHORAGE

Later in the day she repositioned to a less rocky anchorage just off South Bimini. From the stern of Quest we can look out the channel and see her anchored in the distance.

We finally got our bikes down and enjoyed some peddling. Heading north we stopped at the hardware store then went all the way to the upscale Bimini Bay Resort. It is so nicely done with tastefully built homes and shops but, man; it is sure not busy now.

After dinner on Quest we walked to the Bimini Big Game Club for cocktails in the Bar and Grill. Famed Guy Harvey and cohorts have completely renovated this old Hemingway haunt. There is a full service marina, restaurant, shops, dive shop, pool and accommodations to rent. Tyrone welcomed us and answered some of our questions about Bimini. It appears that even though I think this is the perfect time to escape the cold northern US, Bimini’s busy time starts in May and runs through the end of August. I guess that is when the fishing is most excellent. I only know that I am loving it right now!

12/11/2011 PINK CRUSTACEANS

12/11/2011 BIMINI


SUNDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: ZIP, ZERO, NADA NM

DOCKED AT BIMINI BLUE WATER RESORT
     $1.00/FOOT AND $20.00/POWER=$73.00

SUNRISE IN BIMINI: 6:53 AM

SUNSET IN BIMINI: 5:27 PM

HIGH IN BIMINI: 80
LOW IN BIMINI: 71

Ponce de Leon cruised the Bimini Islands in 1513 in search of the Fountain of Youth then pirates haunted these waters in the 1600s. During the Prohibition years (1920-33) the ability to make a quick run between Bimini and Miami gave birth to a prosperous rum-running business. The discovery of these fish-rich waters by the rich and famous really put Bimini on the map and they continue to angle in the turquoise waters.


Well, it turns out that last night’s mystery yacht anchored off Bimini’s western shore was the 279’9” Pacific (#45) that we saw in the Florida water. And yes, folks, they really do have a helicopter on board.

MEGA YACHT PACIFIC

While sifting for shells we found this itsy bitsy little fish in the line of shells. Look how truly perfect this little fellow is.

SE HOW TINY HE IS COMPARED TO DAN'S FINGERS?

We opted to spend our leisure afternoon in exploration. Off in the tender we went, snaking in and out of inlets, zooming out into the sea, discovering decrepit old docks on South Bimini and then ending up at Stuart’s Conch Salad Stand.

DESERTED DOCKS

GUESS THIS SAYS IT ALL

We were not the only ones with the idea to go to Stuart’s today. The Cooking Channel was filming a segment for HLD (Hook, Line & Dinner) in which the host chef, Ben Sargent,  took lessons on making lobster salad made here and we got to watch from behind the scene. Once they were done, though, we did get our conch salad and enjoyed every morsel.



FILMING AT STUARTS



BEN LEARNING TO MAKE BIMINI LOBSTER SALAD

It was “pink crustaceans” for dinner on the Quest tonight. Dan bought a bunch of spiny lobster tails and barbecued them. One word says it all………YUM!

After dinner Dan got back into fabricating his “tidal trash” bracelets from things we found on our morning beach walk.

DAN BACK AT WORK ON HIS TIDAL TRASH CREATIONS

12/10/2011 CREEPING OUT OF FLORIDA IN THE EARLY DARK HOURS

MIAMI TO BIMINI

SATURDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 58 NM

DOCKED AT BIMINI BLUE WATER RESORT
     $1.00/FOOT, NO POWER TODAY, $18.00 FOR WATER TO WASH BOATS=$71.00

SUNRISE IN COCONUT GROVE: 6:56 AM

SUNSET IN BIMINI: 5:27 PM

HIGH: LOVELY

LOW: NOT SO MUCH

We awoke to darkness and whistling winds at 5:00 this morning but, after checking the passage forecast, it seemed that this was about as good as it was going to get for a week. By 5:30 we had cast off and by 6:30 it was 70 degrees and we were passing Key Biscayne. Right on track!

JIGGLY PHOTO OF MIAMI AS WE LEFT IN THE EARLY MORNING DARKNESS

Soon we were cruising through Stiltsville, a scattered community of homes built on stilts right in the waters of Biscayne National Park. They were originally erected to weasel around the laws that forbade gambling within one mile of the shore but now serve as charming retreats.

STILTSVILLE DWELLING

The Cape Florida Lighthouse built in 1825 bade us a safe journey as we passed. The original 65’ lighthouse was burned down in 1836 by attacking Seminole Indians then rebuilt in 1856 to its present height of 95’.

CAPE FLORIDA LIGHTHOUSE

On we went, leaving Miami and Key Biscayne in our wake.

Then came the wind and choppy sea. Guess it had been too long since we had crossed open waters because our preparation for rough seas was lacking. Stacked cases of water went crashing, shower doors swung open, chairs flew over and I sat on the floor. What a mess! Surprisingly, the tender towed just fine as it caromed off the waves.

By 1:30 we were heading into the crystalline water of enchanting Alice Town in North Bimini. Dan handled the tricky channel masterfully; turning in just the right places. The narrow course in the harbor was made yet leaner by the presence of a dredge working hard to keep the shoaling in control.

DREDGING TO KEEP THE CHANNEL PASSABLE

COLORFUL BAHAMA

Bimini Blue Water Marina was a welcomed sight. With helping hands on the dock we were soon secured and scrubbing forcefully at the layers of accumulated salt that latched onto Quest during today’s tumultuous crossing. Next came the extensive inside "clean up" of the semi-disaster that occurred as we were bounced around. With these tasks completed we filled out the necessary paperwork (supplied by the marina), grabbed our passports and documentation then walked to the Bimini Customs and Immigration offices for check-in. A few minutes later and $300.00 shorter we were all checked in for 120 days and had our fishing license too. These nice folks are happy to see you and willing to make the process easy for visitors. Now we are “legal”! Dan removed the “Q” flag and hung Santa for some holiday cheer.

HO! HO! HO!

We took dinner tonight at The Anchorage. Although it has been a restaurant and guest house since 1967, it was built in the 1930s as the home of the Lerner family and the Big Game Fishing Company. I remember shopping at the Lerner stores growing up in southern California! Their Big Game Fishing Company was frequented by Ernest Hemingway and the house was featured in his novel, Island in the Sun. Sometime after we slipped into the Alice Town Harbor and dinner a humongous yacht anchored off the western shore. It was like a city just setting out there, all light up and swaying gently with the current. We tried to get a night photo but it just came out as a dot of light. It will be tomorrow mornings first outing.
Tonight’s moon just seemed to further the island’s welcome. Hope you all stepped out to enjoy the spectacular sight. Robert in Vermont said he took a moment to take in the beauty but it was just too frigid to spend much time enjoying it.




THE FULL MOON WATCHED CAST ITS GLOW OVER US ALL