9/6/2010 LELAND TO FRANKFORT

Even though the wind was still blowing, we decided to make a break for it and head from Leland to Manistee, about a 70 mile trek. By 8:30 we had checked out and, with a helping push off by Ed, Connie and Jerry, had made the passage through the breakwater only to find Paula and Todd (they had left about an hour earlier) headed back in. We hoped our extra heavy Quest would be able to make the transit easier in the choppy 3’ to 5’ waves. The wave height was not such an issue; it was the closely spaced, wind driven chop that made it so difficult. Quest chugged on and by 9:11 we were half way between the Equator and the North Pole.

45 DEGREES NORTH

We motored on past the Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore Park with its 480’ tall sand dunes and white beaches then passed by the photogenic Point Betsie Lighthouse.

SLEEPING BEAR NATIONAL LAKESHORE PARK

POINT BETSIE LIGHTHOUSE

Things were really getting rough now with waves at 7’ to 9’, breaking almost upon each other. We “threw in the towel” and opted to end our day’s travels at Frankfort, traveling on 44 hair-raising miles today. The Frankfort North Breakwater Light was a much welcomed sight and Dan expertly maneuvered the narrow opening into the relatively calm Betsie Lake. We were welcomed to the Frankfort Municipal Marina where we tied up with all available ropes and fenders, preparing for the real wind that would be arriving by Tuesday.

FRANKFORT NORTH BREAKWATER LIGHT

ON OUR PORT SIDE

SOUTH MARKER TO OUR STARBOARD

WELCOME TO FRANKFORT

Labor Day picnickers were playing volleyball and pot lucking in the municipal park right in front of our dockage. A small number of people were milling around the town as we meandered through but by 3:30 we were all scurrying for shelter from the rain and distant thunder. This tall-ship made it in to safely anchor before nightfall.

ANCHORED TALL SHIP

9/5/2010 LELAND STILL

QUEST WELL FENDERED AND TIED

TO WITHSTAND THE WIND

The wind is howling but no rain this cool, crisp morning. People begin coming out of their shelters and the streets fill up with folks just wanting to get out and enjoy their last summer fling on this Memorial Day weekend. The shop owners are rejoicing!!

CLEANING THE FRIDGES

Kind of a quiet day for us. I defrosted both refrigerators then we took a walk past town and through the golf course that hovers on the shores of a small lake. Everyone was out enjoying the sun’s presence. Even Charlie, Todd and Paula’s Golden, was out greeting all those who passed by.

CHARLIE, PAULA AND TODD LOVING THE SUN

WE watched Sam defeat Almagro at the US Open and had everyone in the Marina Club House cheering for him. Most of the time we were watching the computer scoreboard but he did get TV time towards the end of the match. Great job, Sam!

Cocktails were on Ed and Connie’s Sea Estate tonight. It is really nice to hang out with the other “Loopers” and chat for a couple of hours. Even though the wind may still be up tomorrow, we may try scooting out of here tomorrow before then next gale blows in and locks us here until Thursday. We will reevaluate in the morning and then either hunker back down for the duration or make a quick getaway. I’m ready to move on!

9/4/2010 LELAND AND ANOTHER DAY OF RAIN AND WIND

HAPPY BIRTHDAY VAL!

Ok, so today is going to be short and to the point.

THUNDERING LAKE WAVES

Woke up to, you got it, wind and rain! Dan gets up and puts on long pants and a sweatshirt then turns on the heater, the heater! Rain lets up and we went to breakfast. More rain. Rain lets up and we walked back to Quest. More rain. Rain lets up and we walked to the marina center to post blog and do laundry. More rain. Rain lets up and we walked back to Quest. Oops, not quite enough time. Now we are wet. Yes, more rain. I made an apple crisp. Rain and wind. We dashed between the raindrops to Todd and Paula’s Ocean Breeze for evening cocktails. Rain and wind. Back to Quest. Oh my gosh, what is that? Sun? Yes, yes it might be!!! At 7:30 in the evening we were gifted with a fleeting, full, double rainbow to the east. There may be hope yet.

HOPE

Dan and I made a quick walk to the market for ice cream and ate apple crisp ala mode for dinner. Ok, so maybe not the healthiest dinner but we are desperate and sun deprived and deserve it. It looks as if we will be here at least through tomorrow and probably here until Tuesday. There is a blues festival tomorrow somewhere nearby and we hope to make it there, weather permitting.

Our 8:15 sunset was spectacular and we enjoyed the display as the sun crept from our sight. All tucked in for the night.

AFTER A DAY OF WHINIING,

I'M COUNTING MY BLESSING

9/3/2010 STORMY DAY IN LELAND

THE TUMULTUOUS MORNING SKY

The “lake demons” are exhibiting their power today. By 4:00 AM Dan, and many of the other boaters, had been up adjusting the ropes and realigning the fenders before crawling back into their warm beds. The winds are blowing with such force and would intensify throughout the day. Rain would come and go but the wind was with us constantly. The marina flew its red “gale force winds” warning flags all day.

WAVES CRASHING OVER THE BREAKWATER

2 FLAGS = GALE FORCE WINDS

We made our way back to the post office, looking for our replacement dryer belt, but were again told it had not arrived. Hopefully tomorrow!

Some sailing “nut case” decided he must keep his schedule and pulled out of his secure dockage in Leland and headed out into the raging Lake Michigan. We did hear later that they made it to Charlevoix but I bet it was a battle the whole way. We also watched a guy trying to surf in the storm but never saw him catch a wave. Me? I was content to snuggle up in my nice, cozy boat.

SAILBOAT STRUGGLING JUST OUTSIDE THE SAFE HARBOR

SURF'S UP

CRASHING OVER THE BREAKWATER

Since we can’t consistently connect to phone service or Internet from the Quest, we took advantage of the marina’s lovely meeting room and Wi-Fi service to post our daily blog.

After a quick trip to the market to provision for this afternoon’s cocktail party on the Quest, we welcomed guests about 4:00. In attendance today were Jerry and Joan from N II WISHIN (end of Joan’s tuition and the end to wishing for a boat), Ed and Connie from SEA ESTATE and Todd and Paula from OCEAN BREEZE. More stories about all our travels and much storm watching.

THE GROUP

N II WISHIN ON LEFT

SEA ESTATE ON RIGHT

OCEAN BREEZE

Finally the winds shifted a bit and, even though their velocity didn’t diminish, the direction changed and the wind and waves were no longer funneling into the marina’s small channel opening.

STORMY NIGHT

9/2/2010 CHARLEVOIX TO LELAND

Oh do I love these beautiful sunny mornings! After dinking to shore, we paid a quick visit to the Farmer’s Market for some apricots and kale then back to Quest to pull up anchor.

FARMERS MARKET

We made the 10:00 bridge opening and followed several vessels out of cozy Round Lake. Our timing was perfect! The tall masted sailing vessel, Lynx, was making her way through the narrow Pine River and into Round Lake. We were treated to lots of canvas and gunfire as she passed through the shores lined with rapt spectators.

EXITING THE PINE RIVER

TALL MASTED LYNX

The Lynx was designed as an 1812 privateer or naval schooner and is run by the Lynx Education Foundation, a non-profit, non-partisan, educational organization dedicated to a hands-on approach to teaching the history of America’s struggle for independence. What a classroom!

We made a b-line to Leland today as the weather radio was predicting thunderstorms tonight. Tomorrow afternoon through Saturday could bring wind gusts to 45 knots and waves to 16 feet. We had a slip all lined up and by 2:30 we were tied up and snug for the expected storm. We watched an ant trail of vessels trek into this safe harbor all afternoon and into the evening.

A CROOKED PATH TO THE UP HILL ESTATE

Leland’s National Landmark District, Fish Town, is home to the authentic Great Lakes fishing tug and the ancient fish shanties now house to various boutique shops. We did succumb to the lure of Leland’s own Carlson’s Smoke House and purchased one of their smoked fish sausage. I can tell you that we will be buying pounds more tomorrow. Super yummy!

FLOWERS LINE THE LELAND BRIDGE

We spent much of the early evening on N II WISHIN with owners Jerry and Joan and several other “loopers”. There was much information exchanged and many stories told, not to mention a few toddies tipped.

ON WEATHER WATCH

Back on Quest, Dan fired up the good old BBQ and cooked steak and fresh corn for our night’s feast. Before turning in for the night, Dan made one last check on the lines and fenders. We are well “tied-up and fendered-up”, ready for the coming wind and rain. By 11:00 the rain had arrived and pounded on us for over an hour before letting up. What will tomorrow bring??

9/1/2010 HARBOR SPRINGS TO CHARLEVOIX

Pelting rain, that’s what we woke to this morning. However, by the time we were done with breakfast and the blog it had eased up for a bit and we took the dink to town for a “look-see”.

BUSY DINGY DOCK

Harbor Springs is a “cutsie”, wealthy summer hideaway for the corporate executives from Detroit and Chicago. We uncovered more art galleries than I could count and numerous boutiques. While wandering, we happened upon the Farmer’s Market and snagged some “dragon” beans and local peaches.

INNS WITH BEAUTIFUL MANICURED GARDENS

Back on Quest we pulled up anchor and, once again, headed out into the tumultuous Lake Michigan. We were only up for a couple of hours of this beating so headed for Charlevouix in the tiny Round Lake.


Pine River, the narrow entrance to Round Lake, was a welcomed sight and we covered in her shelter, waiting for the US Highway 31 Bridge to open on the ½ hour.

US HIGHWAY 31 BRIDGE

What a beautiful, calm little sanctuary we found in Round Lake. The shores are lined with homes and fabulous boat houses. From our vantage point we were able to see a couple of the “Fairy Houses” built in the 1900 by Earl Young. These whimsical fantasy houses are built of stone and have wave-like rooflines.

NOTE THE WAVY ROOFLINE

COMPLETE WITH FAIRY TALE GARDEN

Soon we were anchored and off in our dingy to explore the city. I found Samantha at Panache Hair Studio open and available to give me a much needed haircut. Thanks Sam. We grabbed some beer and butter at the market and headed back for dinner on the Quest.

HAIRCUT BY SAM

Date night! We dinked back to shore, took in a movie at the local theater then crept back in the dark, starlit night. Fun evening.

FALL ACORNS

8/31/2010 MACKINAC ISLAND TO HARBOR SPRINGS, LAKE MICHIGAN

We were up early this morning to make another bicycle trip around the island before moving on to other ports. We didn’t quite make sunrise but enjoyed our jaunt, none the less.

BIKE ON

OLD CAMP

REMINDED ME OF SILVER LAKE

By 11:00 we had left Mackinac Island, waved good bye to the Grand hotel and “grand” cottages and were passing under the four mile Mackinac Bridge. The waters can be amazingly rough in these Great Lakes. Quest handles the waves and trenches with staunch dignity and we thank her. Many of the smaller vessels have to hope for a favorable weather clearing in order to venture out from the marinas and anchorages. Quest just barges on! Today was a rough one with waves crashing over the deck, sweeping up the helm windows and up over the top.

THE GRAND HOTEL

GRAND COTTAGES

THE FOUR MILE MACKINAC BRIDGE

By late afternoon we were nearing the entrance to Little Traverse Bay and finding huge Lake Michigan shore homes. Soon we rounded the lighthouse point and entered the glass smooth waters of Harbor Springs.

Holy cow! Guess “we are not in Kansas anymore”. The ultra modern condo greeted us as we rounded into the bay then we found ourselves, once again, playing with the big boys. There were several boats much larger than the Quest. Much, much larger!

CONDOS

BIG BOAT

BIGGER BOAT

Anchoring was a real challenge today. Somehow the anchor chain was tossed into knots and had to be jiggled free and fed up several times. This job finally done, we took on the chore of cleaning the dirty dingy. Scrubbing, rinsing and finally taking it out for a spin around the harbor. We watched the families playing at the town beach, admired the charming old home and boaters coming and going.

TOWN BEACH

LOVELY OLD HOMES

Back on Quest we cooked some great trout for dinner and Dan beat me at Backgammon. We fell asleep to the sounds of distant thunder.