CAT ISLAND 3/5/12 THROUGH 3/13/12

ABANDONED TUG WASHED UP DURING SOME STORM

CAT ISLAND

     Cat Island, almost directly east of Staniel Cay, is about 43 miles in length.  We are docked on the southwestern point at the lovely Hawk’s Nest Marina and Resort (www.Hawks-Nest.com), home of the annual Wahoo Championship and Billfish Blast.  It is commonly believed that the island was named after the infamous pirate, Arthur Cat, that made frequents stops on the island.   The actor Sidney Portiere was born and raised on this little paradise.

     Cat Island is a fisherman’s dream.  The marina houses several beautiful fishing boats and is overfilled during the annual tournaments.  Not only is the island situated perfectly for Wahoo, Dorado and Bill Fish in the nearby deep waters but the mangroves and shallows offer an ideal setting the popular Bone fishing.  The marina is within walking distance to the resort or you can grab one of their numerous bikes to make the short trek, however be sure to heed the “AIRPLANE CROSSING” signs when the private runway intersects the roadway.  Even though this small Island has two public airports (ATC=Arthurs Town and TBI=New Bight) there are frequent takeoffs and landings right here by the boats. 

HAWK'S NEST MARINA AND RESORT

     While meandering through the mangrove of Hawk’s Nest Creek we spied more than a half dozen sea turtles lazing about.  That is until they spied us, then they zipped off at an amazing speed.  We have also seen Rays and a Shark in the marina along with Osprey and Herons.  During some of our beach strolls we have found numerous sea-beans, a beautiful King Helmet, a delicate Scotch Bonnet, small Sea Biscuits, a delicate Pearl Oyster, Zebra Ark and my first Flamingo Tongue.

WILD LIFE ON AND AROUND CAT ISLAND

SEA-BEANS

SEA SHELLS FROM CAT ISLAND

     One of the most spectacular sights on Cat Island is The Hermitage.  Father Jerome Hawes sought out this secluded spot to build his diminutive stone monastery when he was 62 and lived there until his death at 80.   The stone structure is perched atop 206 foot Mount Alverno, the highest spot in the Bahamas, affording a spectacular 360 degree view.

THE HERMITAGE

     The Deveaux Plantation and Mansion in Port Howe, once a thriving and luxurious, now lies in ruins with sheep grazing at the doorway.  This land was awarded to Colonel Deveaux in 1783 to reward his protecting Nassau from Spanish invasion and occupation.

THE RUINS OF ANDREW DEVEAUX'S GREAT HOUSE

     During our drive around the island we made a stop at the charming 16 room Greenwood Beach Resort (www.greenwoodbeachresort.com) for lunch and a walk on their lovely beach.  It is the perfect minimalist hideaway owned and operated by a German family.  It certainly was not fancy but perfectly situated on the ocean side and secluded from the outside world.

CHARMING  GREENWOOD BEACH RESORT

     We have dined at the resort a couple of night but have been really enjoying the Grouper that Dan caught as well as Dorado and Wahoo that a neighboring boat shared with us.  One night Mr. Johnson showed up with his pickup loaded with recently delivered produce for sale.  Nice touch!

CAT ISLAND SUNSET

Astronaut photograph of Cat Island. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

                                                CAT ISLAND

SPENDING TIME ON GREAT EXUMA 2/24/13 THROUGH 3/5/13

HUNKERING DOWN IN GEORGE TOWN

     With the Hanson’s departure and the anticipation of some windy and stormy weather, we were quite content to stay docked right next to Algonquin at the Exuma Yacht Club for over a week.  Garth and Dan did a little fishing and enjoying their time out on the water.

DAN AND GARTH ANTICIPATING  DOING THE FISHING THING

IT'S IN THE BAG!

     We rented a car with Garth and Kathy for a couple of days and really did some inner-island exploration.  Heading south from George Town we meandered through Rolle Town, The Ferry and stopped for lunch at Santana’s in Williams Town.  Santana’s is known for the best fried lobster on the island and I wouldn’t put up any arguments on that point.  Santana’s is also a favorite to Johnny Depp when filming down here.   We ran into a little rain this day but our spirits were not dampened and it did cool things down considerably.

SANTANA'S

WE ALSO VISITED THE TROPIC OF CANCER BEACH

     

     The next day we set our sights on the northern part of Great Exuma and covered such locations as Moss Town, Forrest, Farmer’s Hill, Steventon, and Rolleville.  There were stops made to search for sea beans along the wrack line of debris and shells on the swash zone where the sand is hard and wet.

     The town of Steventon is the site of Pompey’s Rebellion. In 1829, 32 year old Pompey led a rebellion when 77 of Lord Rolle’s slaves were told that the Estate Agent was shipping them to Cat Island before they could harvest their families’ crops.  These men and women fled to the bush and hid until their provisions were depleted then 44 of them returned under Pompey’s leadership.  They commandeered Lord Rolle’s salt boat and headed to Nassau appeal to the antislavery sympathetic Governor Smith.  They didn’t quite make it and were captured along the way and thrown into Nassau’s work house.  Governor Smith got wind of their plight and had them all sent back to Exuma.  He did, however, make an example of Pompey by publicly administering 39 punishment lashed.  Pompey’s leadership in this early rebellion earned him a place in history of the Bahama antislavery movement.  Slavery was abolished in the British Colonies in 1838.

STATUE OF POMPEY IN FRONT OF THE RUINS OF AN OLD JAIL

STUCK HERE IN  A BAHAMIAN JAIL!
SO NOW YOU KNOW WHY I AM SELDOM IN THE PHOTOS

I WAS LUCKY, DAN SPRANG ME OUT

     In Rolleville we stopped to inquire about some prickly pods hanging from shrubs.  One of the guys had been part of the crew on the Class C sailboat Thunderbird in Little Farmers Five F races.  He was more than happy to snag some of the prickly pods known as Donkey Eyes and shell out the hard beans.  Kids have been known to rub the beans briskly on something hard then torment buddies by applying the now hot bean to their skin.  Yep, kids will be kids the world over.

PICKING THE MULE EYES TO SHARE WITH US 

     By the 5^th it was time to move on.  The laundry had been utilized, we were provisioned to the hilt and we were ready to go.  Algonquin headed north to begin their journey back to the mainland while Quest set out east for Cat Island and the refuge of Hawk’s Nest Marina where we would ride out the next expected blow. 

  

WE WAVED SO LONG TO ALGONQUIN BUT HOPE TO MEET UP
WITH THEM DURING OUR TRIP THROUGH FLORIDA

THE HANSONS VISIT QUEST

2/19/2013 to 2/25/2013

     Dick and Cheryl arrived on time and without a hitch or glitch.  Since Quest was still docked at Compass Cay, Dan and I took the tender the scant 7 mile jaunt to Staniel Cay to fetch our arriving guests.  We fueled up the tender, grabbed a few things from the local store and were ready and waiting as their Flamingo Air touched down.  We scurried them off to the tender by the Isles General Store then meandered our way back to Quest.

DAN WELCOMES DICK AND CHERYL TO THE EXUMAS
AT THE STANIEL CAY AIRPORT

     We were all in for a real treat as we neared the impressive Overyonder Cay.  Their private plane, Dan had met the pilot at the Staniel Cay bar on a previous visit, was readying to take off.  We all had front row seats as the float plane slid off the she solid ground onto the water, maneuvered to the proper position, gave it the juice then gracefully lifted off.  We got a big wave from the cockpit for being such a diligent audience.

THE OVERYONDER PLANE TAKES OFF AND PUTS ON A SHOW FOR US

     Back at Compass Cay Dick and Cheryl quickly unpacked and were soon on ‘Island Time’, ready for a tropical cocktail and a stunning Bahamian sunset.   You know us on the Quest, we aim to please.   For those of you that know conservative dresser, Dick Hanson, you just wouldn't believe how he shed his usual Brooks Brother shirts and khaki pants.  Let me present the “new Dick Hanson”! 

DICK RELAXING ON QUEST WITH A FLORAL PRINT SHIRT 

     High priority on our list at Compass was to hand our little tribute to Tucker’s coconut tree.  The Hansons had brought a laminated copy of Alexis’ little ditty (set to the tune of They Put The Lime In The Coconut) which we attached to a scavenged life preserver. 

'DE PUT  'DE FINE ON 'DE COCONUT ON COMPASS CAY

   

     Wednesday found us ready to loosen our ties to land and enjoy a night on a mooring ball.  This departure was not my finest hour.  While Dan expertly maneuvered Quest out of the tight dockage, I took the tender out of the cut.  Then I began to second guess myself and our sketchy plans.  Was I supposed to tie up to the Quest in the bay area our once through the cut?  Maybe I should go back in?  No problem there but when my mind began to wander from my job as I watched Dan flawlessly bring Quest out of his spot, I soon found the tender in the seriously shallow shallows.  A little gentle shove by one of our fellow boaters soon had me off and back on course to attach to the Quest.  “Sometimes you’re the show!”

     The 23 NM to Hawksbill proved a lovely cruise for the Hanson’s first day back on the seas.  We basked in the sun and enjoyed the cooling breezes.  Once the mooring tasks were completed we spent the late afternoon lazing on the lovely beach, taking dips in the warm water and snorkeling a bit.  Couldn’t be better!

     Thursday we moved on the 18 NM north to Highborne for a night of pampering at their enchanting marina.  Our dinners were superb and we were even able to get a tour of two rental cottages and one rental cabana.  I think I may run away to one of the cabanas one day.  Quite lovely!

OUR WHEELS ON HIGHBORNE



English: Scrawled Filefish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

     Friday found us mooring again at Cambridge and enjoying the nearby Aquarium, a fabulous site to snorkel.  This time we saw many Parrotfish, yellow and black Rock Beauties, brilliant blue Hamlets, Wrasse, the ever present Sargent Majors, a large Ray skimming the sea bed, a seldom seen Scrawled Filefish and the beautiful but venomous Lion Fish out in the open with his elongated fins feathering out like ribbons in the breeze.  Another fine day!
 

LIONFISH: wikipedia

  

     Saturday proved to be another fine day for traveling and enjoying the beautiful islands on the calm Bank side.  South past Compass , Pipe, Sampson, Staniel, and Black Point on Great Guana Cay then slipping through the pass between Little and Big Farmers Cays.  We idled past David Copperfield’s Musha Cay, drooling at the ideal setting.   We spent a little time out on the Sound side after slipping out Rudder Cut but were soon entering back into the Bank at Bock Cut then entering the path to the moorings at Lee Stocking Island, home of the now defunct Caribbean Marine Research Center of the Perry Institute.  An afternoon filled with swimming and sunning on the beach completed our day.

THE SUNSET'S REFLECTION WAS MOST SPECTACULAR

     By Sunday morning our heads were turning towards George Town as we tried to put aside thoughts of Dick and Cheryl’s Monday morning departure.  Approaching the Rat Cay Cut we watched as the blowhole on Boysie Cay spouted and sprayed.  The amount of boats anchored off popular Stocking Island has grown considerably since we left George Town with the Porters, kind of like being in a sardine tin.  The beautiful M/Y Chantel sat aloof and apart from the crowd. 

BLOW HOLE AT BOYSIE CAY

THE BOATS ARE ALL HERE FOR THE UPCOMING 33 ANNUAL GEORGE TOWN CRUISING REGATTA

     Cleavon greeted us at the dock, welcomed us back and assisted in the tie-up chores.  We were happy to see Garth and Kathy on Algonquin and Zeke jumped right on Quest, barking for a drink and maybe a treat while I was at it.  Our dinner at the yacht club was quite tasty but the Hanson’s impending 5:00 AM wake-up call sent us all to bed early.

THE HANSONS AND THE QUERREYS DECKED OUT FOR OUR LAST DINNER
PLEASE  NOTE DICK'S FLORAL SHIRT NOT, REPEAT NOT, TUCKED IN

   We were all up bright and early as Dick and Cheryl met Clifford in his shiny Suburban taxi for their ride to the airport and the start of a long day.  We really enjoyed our guests and may find it a little quiet on the Quest now.

BETWEEN THE PORTERS AND THE HANSONS

  2/14/2013 to 2/19/2013

 

 With the Porters departure we were ready to head out, fish along the way and snag a mooring ball at Cambridge.  Things don’t always turn out as planned.  Not a fish did we see and the mooring field was filled to the brim.  Since we were planning on heading for Compass Cay to hide from the “big blow” over the weekend, we found ourselves dropping anchor off Compass Cay’s Anna’s Beach.  Silly us, somehow we didn't take to heart the SURGE demarcation on the chart.  Around 4 AM we found ourselves slowly but surely drifting towards the shore.  It was all hands on deck as Dan pulled up the anchor and reset it with considerable more chain out.  It appears that the Quest spun completely around and the chain itself, wrapping around the anchor in the sweep, dislodged the anchor.  With no more tidal changes before morning, we finished our night’s sleep peacefully.

     The morning radio chatter was buzzing as boats sought a safe harbor for the pending blow.  We slipped around the corner into Compass Cay Marina as they quickly filled up.  As usual, Preston greeted us with his charming smile and his “Welcome Home”. 

SOME OF OUR SUNSETS WERE NON-EVENTFUL WHILE
OTHERS WERE SPECTACULAR 

COMPASS CAY MARINA

     And the wind did come, billowing and blustering.  The temperature even dropped to a high of around 62 by Sunday evening.  We had to dig out the long pants and sweatshirts!!!!  By Monday the temperatures were again becoming pleasant and the wind beginning to die down.  Boat by boat the marina began to empty out as folks became more comfortable with the idea of venturing out.  A couple more boats pulled out Tuesday morning and things to get back to normal.  We opted to spend another night here and fetch the Hansons from Staniel Cay in the tender.  

A TOUR WITH THE PORTERS

    2/7/2013 THROUGH 2/13/2013

   With the Five F Festival over it was time to head back to George Town for provisioning, doing laundry, sending Steven back to the frigid Northeast and welcoming the Alexis and Craig aboard for their visit.

   Due to the short duration of the Porter's visit, only six nights, we were anxious to show them some of our most beloved spots here in the Exumas.  Bright and early Friday morning we cast off our lines and took advantage of the relative calm waters. We made the 67 NM trek to Compass Cay on the deep sound side, with fishing lines out  Unfortunately, nothing took our bait but it was a beautiful ride.

     Arriving in Compass Cay the Porters were charmed by Preston’s “Welcome home.  They “Oohed and Awed” the sharks, walked the big beach and  watched the sun set over the turquoise waters of the Bahamas.  Alexis, intrigued by Tucker’s sign warding off coconut pickers, created this little ditty to the tune of “Put the Lime in the Coconut”

     They put the fine on de coconuts at the Compass Cay

     They put the fine on de coconut, $500’s what you’ll pay

     Quest says “TUCKER, ain’t there nothin we can take?”

     And he says “NOTHIN! $500’s what you’ll pay”

     Quest says “TUCKER, your fish look good today”

     And he say, “Man, put DAT fishing pole away”

     Bone fish dey gonna stay in Compass Cay

  Saturday morning we continue traveling in a northerly direction and covered the 41 NM to Highborne Cay Marina, finding M/V  My Reward, Life Song and Northland in residence.  Our thinking was that we would spend one night here then begin anchoring out as we headed back south to their departure destination of Staniel Cay.  The calm beauty and lush amenities soon put an end to that thinking!!  We ended up docking here for three nights, enjoying every minute. We rented a golf cart to explore the island, walked the big beach, swam, took the tender to Norman’s Cay to snorkel the plane wreck, gathered shells, dined in their fine restaurant overlooking the beach, fed the birds and toasted the sun’s surrender each evening.  The restaurant is not open on Mondays so we invited our waiter, Samuel, to Quest for dinner.

   Tuesday found the Quest in a mad dash to Staniel Cay for the Porters last night before their Wednesday morning departure for Nassau.   Spending the night at the marina not only gave the Porters an easier departure but put us right on the dock for the celebration of Fat Tuesday, complete with beads and feathered masks.

   Even though Alexis and Craig had eaten and loved the conch here in the Bahamas they had yet to see one prepared.  Luckily a local brought in a whole passel of them first thing Wednesday morning and kindly showed each step of his magic to release the conch from their beautiful shells.

     

 Flamingo Air proved to be a bit sketchy with their organizational skills and scheduling.  It ended up that the Porters, along with a few others, were inadvertently put on a later flight.  This would not meet their Jet Blue connection from Nassau that would take them back to the cold and wintry northeast.   One of the locals had given us Roland’s phone number (242-357-0571) and he was there, lickety split, to transport them to Nassau in his own little plane.  The four flew from Staniel Cay to Nassau for $500.00 total and he was glad to travel on your schedule.  Seems like this might be the way to go in the future.  Missing the Porters already!     

      

   We had a pleasant surprise when we met up with Tim and Pam on S/V Venture.   They had previously been based at the beautiful Puerto Bahia Resort and Marina in Samana in the Dominican Republic where they ran charters for several years.  Tim reported that a Russian investment group took over the entire resort after which he and Pam made a quick exit from the DR and returned to their home base in Florida.  I am sure we will cross paths with them many times this winter as they are succumbing to the charms of the lovely Bahamian waters.

27 ANNUAL LITTLE FARMER'S CAY FIVE F FESTIVAL

1/31/2013 THROUGH 2/3/2013

After touring around in the tender we pulled up anchor from our nest at Big Majors and met Algonquin coming out of Staniel Cay for a quick 10 NM trip to Little Farmer’s Cay Yacht Club.  Little Farmer’s Cay is the home of the Five F Festival, Little Farmer’s Cay First Friday in February Festival.  Families and friends, old and new, gather for a festival of good food, frivolous games, plenty of rum punch and, of course, the Class C Sailboat Regatta. 

All week the boaters had begun to gather in the waters surrounding Little Farmer’s Cay, most dropping anchor but some snatching up the few mooring balls.  We had thought ahead and reserved the two slips at the yacht club.

Friday morning Captain C, the mailboat, announced its approach with loud and rocking music.  As she sidled up to the face dock Steven and Dan rushed to secure their lines and join in the fun.  Not only did she arrive with pallets of food and drink, friends and families of the residence, bags of precious ice and lots of energy after the night long trip from Nassau but she was also loaded with five of the Class C sailboats that would race today and tomorrow.  The on board crane tenderly offloaded each precious boat then Dan and Steven helped locals to tow them to the west side of the island where the race would take place.

YOU CAN SEE THE SAILBOATS STACKED HERE

THE FAMILIES FLOCK ONTO THE ISLAND

REMEMBER THIS LOOK WITH THE BIG HAIR ROLLERS?

Being on ‘island time’ the announced 9:30 race time turned into around a 2:00 PM reality.  Talk about mass chaos, that doesn’t even come close to capturing the setting.  There were people milling on the beach, Bahamian food to eat, rum punch flowing and music blaring from the speakers at Ty’s Sunset Bar and Grill.

while Tall Boy was serving up some of his marvelous conch salad on the runway.

THE WATER SIDE OF TY'S

CRACKING THE CONCH 

  

Somehow Dan ended up towing boats, ferrying participants, searching for and delivering boat parts and rescuing the crew of a sinking boat.  The race starts with the crew poised and ready in the anchored sailboat.  At the sound of the start gun the sail is hoisted while the anchor is being heaved up.  --- and they’re off!  This way!  That way!  Whoops, they didn’t get their sail up.  Soon they are all flying across the water with sailors dangling off the long wooden planks that extend over the boat.  The triangles flit as they maneuver to keep the wind in their sails and their boats heading for the buoys that mark the course. 

NOTE HOW THEY HANG  WAY OUT ON THE LONG BOARDS TO COUNTER BALANCE THE 

During the two days of festivities there were four races, two participating boats that sank, planes taking off and landing in the midst of it all and gigantic trophies awarded to the regatta winners

THIS BOAT IS SETTING ON THE BOTTOM

MOVE OFF THE RUNWAY!  I'M COMING IN FOR A LANDING.

SERIOUS TROPHIES

AND THE OVERALL WINNERS FROM WHITTY CAY

.

Sunday found things winding down.  The Captain C gathered its cargo of sailboats and returning passengers then cast off for Nassau.  Those of us hanging on watched the Super Bowl once Steven managed to get it streamed through Dan’s computer.  It wasn't flawless but it did provide much entertainment. 

DAY'S END