4/20/2011 THE PORTERS JOIN US AT WRIGHTSVILLE BEACH, NC

WEDNESDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 0 NM

DOCKED AT:    SEAPATH YACHT CLUB AND MARINA

ICW MILE MARKER:    347

SUNRISE: 6:34       SUNSET: 7:46

HIGH: 90                LOW: 66

Busy day! Dan removed the port side transmission oil pump; I picked up our rental car and made as dent in the Target’s inventory. Unfortunately, Dan’s day didn’t go quite as well as expected. He was going to install the new pump we had on hand while having the old one sent out to be rebuilt then shipped to us as a spare. The new pump just happened to be for the starboard side but he found a guy at Covington Power Services to rebuild it and have it ready for us tomorrow morning.

Polly and Mike on sailing vessel Chinook docked at Seapath today and we reminisced about our meeting in the Exumas.

Craig and Alexis Porter arrived at the darling Wilmington Airport on the frequently tardy US Airways. We swooped them up and delivered them to our Quest then had an enjoyable dinner on the dockside veranda of the Blue Water’s Restaurant.

WELCOME BACK!!

4/19/2011 MYRTLE BEACH, SC TO WRIGHTSVILLE BEACH, NC

TUESDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY:   60 NM

DOCKED AT:   SEAPATH YACHT CLUB AND DOCK

ICW MILE MARKER:    284

SUNRISE:    6:39     SUNSET:    7:46

HIGH:    81              LOW:    51

TODAY’S BRIDGES: 2

1. SOCASTEE SWING BRIDGE 371

2. LITTLE RIVER SWING BRIDGE 347.3

Once again, and for the last time, we set out this morning with Rho-Jo in the lead. Today they will be completing their Loop and returning to their home in Carolina Beach, SC. We captured them reentering their home state of North Carolina at MM340.9.

RHO-JO BACK IN NORTH CAROLINA

Sunset Beach Pontoon Bridge is the last remaining pontoon bridge on the Atlantic portion of the ICW. There are efforts to preserve this historic bridge and we wish them success.

SUNSET BRIDGE PONTOON BRIDGE

We entered the Cape Fear River with quaint Southport to our port and isolated Bald Head Island to our starboard. The current was whipping at 4 NM and our speed was immediately reduced to a mere crawl until we entered Snows Cut. Exiting the Cut, we waved good bye to Ronda and Joe as they headed down to their Carolina Beach home and we set off towards Wrightsville Beach.

We passed by our own South East Harbor boat docks, marveling at the extremely low tide due to the full moon cycle. A little further on, we viewed the distressed sailboat, just waiting for the tide to come in and set them free.

OUR SOUTH EAST HARBOR COMMUNITY DOCK

LISTING SAILBOAT WAITING FOR A LIFT

Seapath Yacht Club and Marina proved a convenient place to dock with a loaner car that patrons could use for an hour or so and nearby restaurants. We took advantage of this and headed to our beloved La Costa Restaurant on Market Street for our fill of real Mexican food.

4/18/2011 GEORGETOWN TO BAREFOOT LANDIING IN NORTH MYRTLE BEACH, SC

MONDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY:   41 NM

DOCKED AT:   BAREFOOT LANDING MARINA

ICW MILE MARKER:    354.4

SUNRISE: 6:44       SUNSET: 7:48

HIGH: 69                LOW: 43

TODAY’S BRIDGES: 1

       1. SOCASTEE SWING BRIDGE

As we pull out of Georgetown and reenter the ICW’s main channel we saw the first of several barges working the waterways on this lovely Monday.

BARGE WORKING THE WATERWAY

The Waccamaw River brought more alligators and moss draped cypress. The hideaways tucked along the banks were both rustic and charming on their perches. The mineral rich, tea-brown river water has begun to create that telltale “river mustache”.

RUSTIC HIDEAWAYS ALONG THE WATER'S EDGE



NOTICE THE BROWN TINT TO THE CHURNING WATERS IN OUR WAKE


As we neared buys Myrtle Beach civilization began to shout its presence with nice homes, towering condos and “go-fast” boats.

THE PERFECT LITTLE HOME ON THE WATER

We docked at Barefoot Landing and headed for the numerous shops right at our doorsteps. First things first, ice cream for everyone! We girls did our best to add our “two bits” to the South Carolina economy!

THE GANG GETTING FUELED UP WITH ICE CREAM

Phyllis and Tom on Cocoon Too joined the group for Happy Hour at TBonz and we learned of their many adventures.

PHYLLIS (COCOON TOO), RHONDA (RHO-JO), JUDY (QUEST) AND MARLENE (NOMAD)

Myrtle Beach began as a getaway for lumber workers in Conway and has developed into a major tourist attraction. When it finally incorporated in 1957 they decided to name their town after the abundant local shrub, the Southern Wax Myrtle.

4/17/2011 ISLE OF PALMS TO GEORGETOWN, SC

SUNDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY:   47 NM

DOCKED AT:   HARBORWALK MARINA

ICW MILE MARKER:   1.1 NORTH OF 403

SUNRISE:   6:48      SUNSET:   7:48

HIGH: 71                 LOW: 42

We were off by 8:00 on this brilliant morning under clear skies and cool temperatures. The channel took us by isolated low country camps located within dense copse of trees that were accessible only by shallow draft skiffs.

YES, THAT WOULD BE THE "SOUTHERN CROSS" FLYING HIGH

The big excitement of today was the wildlife that we saw. First, we saw our first alligators in the wild. In fact, we saw sever of those giant lizard like creatures in the murky waters. We also saw bald eagles on two different occasions and a few languid dolphin in the waterways. Our heads were swiveling from side to side as well as checking up in the skies and down in the water. Oh yes, we also encountered our first ugly green-eyed monster flies of the season. I could definitely do without their company.

YOU HAVE TO LOOK CLOSELY BUT THE GATOR IS FLOATING
RIGHT AT THE SHORELINE

BALD EAGLE SOARING ABOVE

Today’s destination was Georgetown, South Carolina’s third oldest city. It was founded in 1730 and thrived as a port of entry by shipping rice, indigo and lumber. The rice and indigo boom ended with the Civil War and some devastating hurricanes towards the end of the 19th century. Lumber trade stayed strong and there is now a steel mill that helps to support the local economy. Shrimp trawlers litter the waters and add to the wealth as well as the charm of this historic town. The commercial roe shrimp season will begin down here in May then June will bring harvesting of the brown shrimp.

THE STEEL MILL IN GEORGETOWN HARBOR

SHRIMP TRAWLERS WAITING FOR THEIR SEASON TO START

ANOTHER QUEST DOCKED RIGHT WHERE WE STOPPED LAST YEAR
WITH CRAIG AND ALEXIS

We got to meet Rhonda and Joe’s friends, Scott and Marlene, on Nomad and made plans to make tomorrow’s journey to Myrtle Beach all together.

4/16/2011 STAYING PUT AT ISLE OF PALMS

SATURDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY:   0 NM

DOCKED AT:   ISLE OF PALMS MARINA

ICW MILE MARKER:   458

SUNRISE: 6:48      SUNSET: 7:49

HIGH: 78                LOW: 66

After an early morning check on the day’s predicted weather, we all decided to just stay put. There were small craft warnings, the cancellation of today’s Charleston Race Week regatta and general fowl weather predictions.

So----it was a day of long neglected cleaning on the Quest, inside and out. While we experienced only odd sprinkles it was threatening all around our little pocket of relative serenity.

Exhausted, we headed for the marina’s restaurant for hamburgers. The soft-shell crab and lamb was delicious!! After dinner we wandered around our surrounding area and found our way to the angry, churning ocean. Boy, glad we were not out there today!

Back on Quest we watched “MY Big Fat Greek Wedding” then found a fire truck and paramedics were attending to a fallen victim in the parking lot. Although it didn’t look to be too serious, it did offer up a little diversion in our day.

During the 60s, underwater archaeologist E. Lee Spencer and local residence discovered many shipwrecks in this area. Among the discoveries were several Civil War blockade runners.

4/15/2011 FROM BEAUFORT, PAST CHARLESTON AND ON TO ISLE OF PALM, SC

FRIDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY:   69 NM

DOCKED AT:    ISLE OF PALM MARINA

ICW MILE MARKER:   458

SUNRISE:   6:54        SUNSET: 7:52

HIGH: 75                   LOW: 60

This morning found us off exceptionally early due to the long day ahead of us. Luckily we were able to pass under the Ladies Island Swing Bridge and were soon on our way.

Sometimes the current was pushing us along at a fine clip while other times it seemed that we were barely holding our own. Just after entering Watts Cut from South Edisto River and just shy of Red 138 we came upon a palm tree stuck in the muddy bottom. It was right in the channel and could really ruin an unobservant boater’s day.

At Yonges Island we watched the busy working shipyard and later found this poor sailboat high and dry by the John F. Limehouse Bridge. Elliott Cut that connects the Stono River with the Ashley River had over a 4 mile per hour current.

WORKING BOATYARD

HIGH AND DRY SAILBOAT

FOLLOWING RHO-JO THROUGH THE ELLIOTT CUT

This is a busy weekend in Charleston with planned sailboat races. Dan had to carefully weave through Charleston Harbor while trying to stay in the channel and somehow avoid the races going on all over the place. Meanwhile, I was trying to catch a glimpse of the USS Yorktown at Patriots point and Fort Sumter.

MAKING THE TURN AT A FRANTIC PACE

USS YORKTOWN AIRCRAFT CARRIER

FORT SUMTER

We were welcomed into the comfortable Isle of Palm Marina where we were most happy to escape the frantic activity in Charleston. It looks like we are real lucky to be traveling right where we are. Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi were hit with 99 tornadoes today!

We spent some time today reminiscing on our transit of the Panama Canal last year on this date. That is truly way up there on our list of favorite things when we think back.

4/14/2011 HILTON HEAD ISLAND TO BEAUFORT, SC

THURSDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 23 NM

DOCKED AT: DOWNTOWN MARINA OF BEAUFORT

ICW MILE MARKER: 536.2

SUNRISE: 6:56       SUNSET: 7:51

HIGH: 77                LOW: 55

TODAY’S BRIDGES: 0 OPENINGS TODAY

Heading back out of Broad Creek behind Rho-Jo at an ever so slow speed we saw depth of only 4.5’ as we made the turn back into the ICW. Ladies, hold your breath and raise your skirts!! Once we began to see better depths we stepped it up and made tracks for Beaufort.

BEAUTIFUL WATERWAY HOMES

STATELY MANOR

As we made the turn up Beaufort River, Paris Island, a major training facility for the men and women of our United States Marine Corps, sat to our port.

 Image via Wikipedia

THE FAMOUS YELLOW FOOTSTEPS THAT
AWAIT ARRIVING MARINE RECRUITS AT
THE PARIS ISLAND MARINE TRAINING
DEPOT










Soon we were docked in beautiful Beaufort. This lovely waterside town was founded in 1711. It flourished as a center for shipbuilding then later landholders amassed vast fortunes on the plantations.

Today Beaufort is as a haven for history buffs as well as tourists that flock here for the many quaint shops and restaurants that make up the city.

4/13/2011 KILKENNY, GA TO HILTON HEAD ISLAND, SC

WEDNESDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY:   48 NM

DOCKED AT: PALMETTO BAY MARINA, HILTON HEAD, NC

ICW MILE MARKER: 563.8

SUNRISE: 6:58          SUNSET: 7:50

HIGH: 77                   LOW: 49

TODAY’S BRIDGES: 0

Due to our order on the dock and the swiftness of the current, Gypsea pulled off first, we followed next then Rho-Jo left the dock. Soon we shifted Rho-Jo to the front and chugged after his lead. One of the first sights of the morning was a distant cruise ship in the ICW. Hummm?!

RHONDA AND JOE IN THE LEAD

CRUISE SHIP IN THE ICW

We eked our way through the shallow Hell’s Gate that connects the Ogeechee River to the Vernon River then were soon passing Moon River. Yes, that’s the same Moon River immortalized by songwriter Johnny Mercer and singer Andy Williams. While Savannah looms close by land, it is a good two hours by water and we opted out this trip.

WE ARE SEEING MORE AND MORE OSPREY NESTS

Soon we found ourselves entering South Carolina waters and passing Haig Point on Daufuskie Island. For you fans of Pat Conroy, this is the setting of his novel “The Water is Wide” where he chronicles his first year of teaching. This island, still only accessible by water, was granted to the freed slaves after the Civil War. They made their living as oystermen, lumbermen and farmers. By the way, the pronunciation of Daufuskie is “Da fus key” as in “the first key” as the inhabitants of this small island said it.

To reach our night’s destination on Hilton Head Island we headed into Broad Creek to the Palmetto Bay Marina just shy of the Cross-Island Expressway Bridge. Rhonda and Joe headed just a tad bit further to Broad Creek Marina to dock. They have friends, Dena and Phil, that work and live on their boat there. Later in the evening we all met for drinks and dinner at our lovely resort. I feasted on my first soft shell crab of the season!!

PALMETTO BAY MARINA

In 1663, Hilton Head was spotted by English Navy Captain William Hilton. It really hit the big time in the 1950s when the development boom swept the area. Today herds of tourists and “snow birds” flood to her shores to enjoy the balmy weather, manicured golf courses, lovely beaches and abundant preserved nature sanctuary.

South Carolina is the first place in the United States that tea was ever grown and is the only state ever to produce tea commercially. “Sweet Tea” reigns as king here and a great thirst quencher.

4/12/2011 JEKYLL ISLAND TO KILKENNY MARINA WITH M/Y RHO-JO

TUESDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY: 61 NM

DOCKED AT: KILKENNY MARINA

ICW MILE MARKER: 613.5

SUNRISE: 7:04      SUNSET: 7:51

HIGH: ?                 LOW: ?

TODAY’S BRIDGES: 0

Both Jill and Richard were out to help us with our lines as we cast with Rho-Jo at 8:00 this morning. They sported rather lost looks and were having a hard time digesting the fact that they had truly completed their loop and were not continuing on the journey with us. This shock syndrome is a typical reaction with Loopers at the end of their trip.

The gulls swarmed in our wake as we headed out of Jekyll under threatening skies. Before long the temperatures were dropping and the predictions of precipitations were coming true. We followed Joe and Rhonda through the zigs, zagas and radical doglegs in the ICW. The names of waterways that we traveled on or passed by gave us a glimpse of the old South. Buttermilk Sound, Little Mud River, Old Teakettle Creek and Dog Hammock Split were our companions today and we took joy in their beauty.

THE GULLS WERE HOT ON OUR TAIL

RHO-JO IN THE LEAD

JUST ONE OF THE SPECTACULAR SIGHTS WE WERE GIFTED WITH

Just before diverting into the Kilkenny River to dock at their marina and take on fuel, Dan spied a gorgeous Bald Eagle who seemed to be there to welcome us.  The river and its surrounddings offered us a charming view. The only drawback, as the sun slipped us into the shade, proved to be the little winged insects that  converged upon us as we ran to swiftly close all doors and windows.

THE BALD EAGLE WELCOMES US

ENTERING KILKENNY RIVER

RHO-JO DOCKED AT THE KILKENNY MARINA

SHRIMPER AT REST FOR THE NIGHT

Rhonda and Joe joined us for cocktail hour and we reminisced about pleasant boating memories and Wilmington, NC. They are the folks that we met in Mackinac, MI and discovered that our Steven and their daughter had graduated from UNCW on the same day. Small world!

4/11/2011 CRUISING OUTSIDE FROM ST. AUGUSTINE TO JEKYLL ISLAND MARINA

MONDAY

TOTAL MILES TRAVELED TODAY:   66 NM

DOCKED AT:   JEKYLL ISLAND MARINA

ICW MILE MARKER: 684

SUNRISE: 7:04    SUNSET: 7:51

HIGH: 82              LOW: 65

TODAY’S BRIDGES: 0

With the jet’s vapor streams stripping the skies high overhead and the promise of another brilliant day, we dropped the mooring ball and headed out for a day on the seas. Predictions for tomorrow, however, warn us of an unpleasant front approaching.

JET VAPORS RESEMBELING THE SUNS RAYS

We passed close by ships queuing up to enter the bustling Jacksonville Harbor, put out a couple unrequited fishing lines, watched for passing sea turtles and dolphin, enjoyed the sun and monitored the busy VHF radio.

SHIPS READY TO ENTER THE HARBOR

Recognizable boats names on the radio are a highlight and today we heard and talked to Carlton on Seamoore and Jim on Blue Angel. We have seen neither of these boats since being high up on Florida’s west coast. We also heard Richard on Finally making plans to come into their home port of Jekyll Harbor Marina to complete their ICW Loop and decided to make that our night’s stop also.

Image by Mary Keim via FlickrThe seas off Georgia presented us with an incredible show of thousands of Cannonball Jellyfish and several hundred Rays, perhaps Cownose Rays. The waters were peppered with the grapefruit sized jellyfish with groups of rays numbering form only a couple to eight or ten with underside of their wing tips glistening as they stroked just under the water. I’m not sure I have ever seen anything quite like it.

The challenge of entering the St. Andrews Sound was augmented by the missing first red Aid to Navigation Marker. Thank goodness for the charts and our adored Garmin chart plotter. Jekyll Harbor Marina welcomed us at the dock and soon we were tied, hooked to water, powered up and registered. Both Finally and Rho-Jo were docked here and we all celebrated Jill and Richard’s (Finally) completion of the Loop over a lovely dinner.

THE LOOPERS ALL GATHERED AND READY FOR A NIGHT ON THE TOWN

CHOW TIME!

Jekyll Island was once the “cottage” retreat of such notables as the Rockefeller, Vanderbilt, JPMorgan and Pulitzer families and their former mansions now stand as a testament to those former days. In 1947 the state of Georgia purchased the entire island in a successful attempt to protect the island against unrestrained development and preserve the fragile ecosystem of this barrier island.

Image via Wikipedia

INDIAN MOUND
THE ROCKEFELLER'S COTTAGE IN THE
HISTORIC DISTRICT ON JEKYLL ISLAND